---
product_id: 33248804
title: "Genie Series II Garage Door Opener Wall Console - Sure-Lock/Vacation Lock for Extra Security - Light Control Button - Compatible with All Genie Series II Garage Door Openers - Model GBWCSL2-BX"
brand: "genie"
price: "€ 57.58"
currency: EUR
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 13
category: "Genie"
url: https://www.desertcart.fi/products/33248804-genie-series-ii-garage-door-opener-wall-console-sure-lock
store_origin: FI
region: Finland
---

# Independent light control Sure-Lock vacation lock Easy 2-screw installation Genie Series II Garage Door Opener Wall Console - Sure-Lock/Vacation Lock for Extra Security - Light Control Button - Compatible with All Genie Series II Garage Door Openers - Model GBWCSL2-BX

**Brand:** genie
**Price:** € 57.58
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🔐 Upgrade your garage control—secure, smart, and effortlessly sleek!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Genie Series II Garage Door Opener Wall Console - Sure-Lock/Vacation Lock for Extra Security - Light Control Button - Compatible with All Genie Series II Garage Door Openers - Model GBWCSL2-BX by genie
- **How much does it cost?** € 57.58 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.fi](https://www.desertcart.fi/products/33248804-genie-series-ii-garage-door-opener-wall-console-sure-lock)

## Best For

- genie enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted genie brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Backlit Control Panel:** Locate and operate your garage door easily even in complete darkness.
- • **Vacation Mode Security:** Lock out remotes & keypads effortlessly when away for peace of mind.
- • **Hassle-Free Installation:** Mounts with just 2 screws and simple wiring—no pro needed.
- • **Independent Light Control:** Turn garage lights on/off without opening or closing the door.
- • **Universal Series II Compatibility:** Works seamlessly with all Genie Series II openers since 1995.

## Overview

The Genie Series II Garage Door Opener Wall Console (Model GBWCSL2-BX) is a wired control panel designed for all Genie Series II garage door openers made since 1995. Featuring a backlit interface for easy nighttime use, a Sure-Lock slide lock to disable remotes during vacations, and independent light control, it offers enhanced security and convenience. Installation is straightforward with just two screws and two wires, making it a perfect upgrade or replacement for older models.

## Description

The Genies Multi-function Series II wired garage door opener wall console Featuring Sure Lock Mode with new Slide Lock Design replaces an Genie Series II wall console manufactured since 1995. This wall control panel will not work on Genie Series III wall consoles. Installation of the multi-function wall control panel/console, is easy installs with just 2 screws. You have the ability to lockout remotes when you are on vacation, control your garage door openers lights, and open and close your garage door.

Review: Easy to install and a nice replacement for the old original - After she pushed it for the first time, my wife said "thank you, thank you!" This was of course followed by "why did you wait so long to replace the old one if this was so easy to do?" "Umm, because I was waiting for the price to drop?" or "It seemed like it was going to be a lot harder to do and I just hadn't found the time on my Honey-do list." Anyway, now that this is installed and all done, my wife thanks me every time she uses it instead of cursing the old button every time it didn't work correctly. Which was pretty often. Anyway, on to the "Wall Console," hereafter referred to as the button. The old one was installed when the house was built in 1996, and had been sticking for several years. Sometimes it would double-click, which would mean you'd have to push twice. Once to close the door that had opened 1" and then stopped, and once again to open. And hope that it didn't double-click again (which it did on more than one occasion). The other neat trick the old button would do was to get stuck in the depressed position, which rendered the whole system inoperable. All pretty annoying. If you wonder why it took so long for me to replace it: My wife parks her car in the garage, while mine parks in the driveway and I use the front door. :) The new button works great. It is huge compared to the old button, and all alone, so you don't have to worry about turning on the opener light when you meant to open the door (or vice versa). And the light inside it is pretty bright. If you didn't notice the big black box all by itself on the wall, you'd certainly notice the red light. (And in case you are wondering from the picture, the green painters tape on the grab bar was to provide some contrast in a field of white for the person using it, who due to glaucoma has a limited field of vision). And, now on to the installation. (I am going to first assume that this is a replacement button and not a first time install. For that, you'd also need to run a two-conductor wire from the button to the garage door opener) Installing this button as a direct replacement couldn't be easier. At least if you have a short garage ceiling. Mine is a little over 10 feet tall, meaning I had to get the ladder out of its hiding place behind piles of junk in order to reach the plug to unplug the garage door opener (step number 1 in replacing the button). Why didn't I just turn off the breaker? Because the genius that built my house wired the garage lights in with the same outlet the opener is plugged in to. And I didn't open the garage door because it was nighttime when I was working. Also during late fall. And the garage faces to the Northwest, so all the cold wind blows right in. That squirrel put to bed, after you have unpacked the box the button came with and have all the tools mentioned in the box (if you are replacing an existing Genie button, you may only need a #2 Philips screwdriver), step 1 of the installation is to unplug your garage door opener (or flip the circuit breaker). Step 2 is to unscrew the old button. Once off the wall, there should be two wires leading into the back of the existing button. Do not disconnect them yet. Take the new button and check to see that the screw holes line up. If they line up, you can skip the next few paragraphs. Tools need for this step(s): Pencil or thin-bodied pen, Philips screwdriver, a tape measure at least 5 feet long, a power drill with various bits <1/4", Small hammer (or very big thumb). Optional equipment would be a stud-detector. If you need to drill new holes for the new button, there are instructions in the box, but you will need a small drill (I don't remember the exact size, but it is less than 1/4"). Once you have found a spot on the wall next to the door where you would like to have the button, mark the locations for the screws by inserting your pencil or pen through the screw holes on the from of the new button and drawing around the outside of the hole. (And per many building codes, they should ideally be 50" up from the floor or step, to keep small children from playing with the garage door and getting hurt). The optional step of looking for a stud, so that you don't need to use the plastic anchors requires the use of a stud-detector, and is outlined a following paragraph. I always start by first drilling a small pilot hole, usually with a 3/32" drill bit to make sure I'm not over a stud. In order to do that, the drill bit has to stick out at least 1" from the drill to get through the drywall. Your drill should go easily through drywall, but less so through wood. The other thing to look for is wood on the end of the drill bit. The 3rd test is to not drill to the full depth of the drill. After you are done drilling and the drill is off, push the drill bit back in the hole. If you are over a stud, you won't be able to push any farther. If there is no stud behind the wall, there will be no resistance felt. If you had drilled a 1/4" hole and gone into a stud too far, you then would have trouble using either type of fastener (screwing directly into the stud, or the plastic inserts). Once you have determined whether you are into a stud or in just drywall, you can then either move on (stud) or pull out the larger drill bit (drywall) and drill the holes to the larger size. After you've done that, now is where the small hammer or big thumb comes in. You need to push/lightly tap the plastic inserts into the holes, flush with the drywall. I like to try putting the screws in now, either into the studs or into the inserts once the inserts are in the wall, just not all the way in, to make sure they will work. If you have difficulty screwing into the stud, you may need a slightly larger pilot hole. Now is the time to find out, not when you have the button halfway mounted on the wall. If the inserts spin when you are just starting the screw, you may need a bigger size or different type of fastener (unfortunately, drywall comes in different thicknesses and grades, and also gets more brittle with age, so what works in a 20 year old house may not work in a 50 year old house. ) For help finding studs next to doorways, most doors will have two studs against either side of the door, which may or may not be touching. You can often find the location of the outermost stud by looking at the location of the light switches next to the door, as they will (usually) be attached to that stud. The next stud may be 16" center to center, or the inside and outside edges of the stud will be about 14.5" and 16" from the door side edge of the switch plate. The reason I say may is that while (most) wall studs are placed on 16" centers, doors usually don't fit in those dimensions, so the gap on either side of the door is likely to be smaller. In the case of my door, the light switch pictured is on the inside of a stud and the button is over the next stud (but off to one side enough to cover the hole where the wire comes through the drywall, so the center to center distance is about 6" instead of 16?). But using a stud detector often starts with a tape measure and knowing where a stud "should" be, so you will know what your detector signal looks like when it finds one. Also, since studs generally are on 16" centers, finding one will usually help in finding others. After you are ready to mount the button to the wall (but before you actually mount it), turn over the button and you will notice two screws on the bottom of the button. These correspond to the two screws on the old button. You simply need to unscrew one wire from the old button and transfer the wire to a terminal (screw) on the new button, and then do the same thing with the second wire. Having done this, turn the new button over, place it against the wall, making sure you aren't pinching the wires (there is a little slot for surface mounted wires to exit) and insert the previously started screws (you did remember to take them out?) and tighten them down. Now all you have to do is plug your garage door back in (or turn on the circuit breaker) and your new button should work like a charm. In fact, it probably took me far longer to type this out than it did to install the button. Of course, I had holes that mostly lined up (I think I actually had to drill a new hole for one of the screws, thinking back now).
Review: 5 minutes to install and works perfectly - Perfect replacement

## Features

- The Genie Series II Wall Console control panel, has a back light, making it easy to locate in the dark
- This Genie Series II Wall Console control panel is equipped with a sure-lock slide lock that locks out remotes or keypads when you are on vacation for added safety
- This wall console, control panel, is very easy to install, with only 2 mounting screws, and two wires that attach to the back of the console
- The Genie Series II wall console is compatible with all Genie series II garage door openers made since 1995. Will not work with wall consoles that have a black button. Replacement for these models: BWC2, GPWC, GWC-2, GPWC
- This multi-function Genie Wall Console, allows you to turn the garage door opener lights on, independently from opening/closing the garage door

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B013HHIY0K |
| Batteries Included? | No |
| Batteries Required? | No |
| Best Sellers Rank | #7,176 in Tools & Home Improvement ( See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement ) #44 in Garage Door Keypads & Remotes |
| Brand | Genie |
| Color | Gray |
| Connectivity Protocol | Wired |
| Control Method | Touch |
| Customer Reviews | 4.7 4.7 out of 5 stars (5,510) |
| Date First Available | March 1, 2013 |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00050049020576, 00749860047335 |
| Included Components | Includes the Genie Series II Wall Console, two mounting screws, and detailed installation instructions |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Item Package Quantity | 1 |
| Item Weight | 2.4 ounces |
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 4 x 0.75 x 2 inches |
| Item model number | GBWCSL2 |
| Lock Type | Keypad |
| Manufacturer | Genie |
| Material | Plastic |
| Model Name | GBWC2-BX, GPWC-BX, GWC-2, GPWC-2WLB |
| Number of Pieces | 1 |
| Part Number | 39165R |
| Product Dimensions | 4 x 0.75 x 2 inches |
| Recommended Uses For Product | Garage |
| Size | Wired Wall Console |
| Special Feature | Alcohol-Free |
| Special Features | Alcohol-Free |
| Style | Wired |
| UPC | 765042454159 749860047335 780320029539 190283079692 050049020576 640213242493 696735525002 077349966861 642008672515 696582437978 |
| Usage | Inside |
| Warranty Description | Limited 1 year |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Genie
- **Item dimensions L x W x H:** 4 x 0.75 x 2 inches
- **Lock Type:** Keypad
- **Material:** Plastic
- **Special Feature:** Alcohol-Free

## Images

![Genie Series II Garage Door Opener Wall Console - Sure-Lock/Vacation Lock for Extra Security - Light Control Button - Compatible with All Genie Series II Garage Door Openers - Model GBWCSL2-BX - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71xmsqrpy5L.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: Will this work with a legacy 650 model 1029 garage door opener**
A: Yes it should. Many Overhead Brand and Genie Operators have had interchangeable parts
since 1995

**Q: Will this work with is850. Acsr3?**
A: Yes... The is850 is a Series II unit.
This wall console is typically hard wired to the Opener, so the ACSR3 should not be factor in REPLACING the wall unit.

**Q: I have a powermax 5500 opener so will this  genie gbwc2-bx series ii wall unit work?**
A: Well, yes works,  but, only 6 months, I feel these controllers are defective because mine don't work anymore like the original. Only 6 months, need a new one again.

**Q: Will this turn on the lights only for my Genie 650?**
A: To the best of my knowledge the remote only works with the Genie. You program it to communicate with the Genie, not any external light fixtures. Don't see how it could be done, but who knows, someone out there might be able to rig it to work.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Easy to install and a nice replacement for the old original
*by D***S on December 29, 2018*

After she pushed it for the first time, my wife said "thank you, thank you!" This was of course followed by "why did you wait so long to replace the old one if this was so easy to do?" "Umm, because I was waiting for the price to drop?" or "It seemed like it was going to be a lot harder to do and I just hadn't found the time on my Honey-do list." Anyway, now that this is installed and all done, my wife thanks me every time she uses it instead of cursing the old button every time it didn't work correctly. Which was pretty often. Anyway, on to the "Wall Console," hereafter referred to as the button. The old one was installed when the house was built in 1996, and had been sticking for several years. Sometimes it would double-click, which would mean you'd have to push twice. Once to close the door that had opened 1" and then stopped, and once again to open. And hope that it didn't double-click again (which it did on more than one occasion). The other neat trick the old button would do was to get stuck in the depressed position, which rendered the whole system inoperable. All pretty annoying. If you wonder why it took so long for me to replace it: My wife parks her car in the garage, while mine parks in the driveway and I use the front door. :) The new button works great. It is huge compared to the old button, and all alone, so you don't have to worry about turning on the opener light when you meant to open the door (or vice versa). And the light inside it is pretty bright. If you didn't notice the big black box all by itself on the wall, you'd certainly notice the red light. (And in case you are wondering from the picture, the green painters tape on the grab bar was to provide some contrast in a field of white for the person using it, who due to glaucoma has a limited field of vision). And, now on to the installation. (I am going to first assume that this is a replacement button and not a first time install. For that, you'd also need to run a two-conductor wire from the button to the garage door opener) Installing this button as a direct replacement couldn't be easier. At least if you have a short garage ceiling. Mine is a little over 10 feet tall, meaning I had to get the ladder out of its hiding place behind piles of junk in order to reach the plug to unplug the garage door opener (step number 1 in replacing the button). Why didn't I just turn off the breaker? Because the genius that built my house wired the garage lights in with the same outlet the opener is plugged in to. And I didn't open the garage door because it was nighttime when I was working. Also during late fall. And the garage faces to the Northwest, so all the cold wind blows right in. That squirrel put to bed, after you have unpacked the box the button came with and have all the tools mentioned in the box (if you are replacing an existing Genie button, you may only need a #2 Philips screwdriver), step 1 of the installation is to unplug your garage door opener (or flip the circuit breaker). Step 2 is to unscrew the old button. Once off the wall, there should be two wires leading into the back of the existing button. Do not disconnect them yet. Take the new button and check to see that the screw holes line up. If they line up, you can skip the next few paragraphs. Tools need for this step(s): Pencil or thin-bodied pen, Philips screwdriver, a tape measure at least 5 feet long, a power drill with various bits <1/4", Small hammer (or very big thumb). Optional equipment would be a stud-detector. If you need to drill new holes for the new button, there are instructions in the box, but you will need a small drill (I don't remember the exact size, but it is less than 1/4"). Once you have found a spot on the wall next to the door where you would like to have the button, mark the locations for the screws by inserting your pencil or pen through the screw holes on the from of the new button and drawing around the outside of the hole. (And per many building codes, they should ideally be 50" up from the floor or step, to keep small children from playing with the garage door and getting hurt). The optional step of looking for a stud, so that you don't need to use the plastic anchors requires the use of a stud-detector, and is outlined a following paragraph. I always start by first drilling a small pilot hole, usually with a 3/32" drill bit to make sure I'm not over a stud. In order to do that, the drill bit has to stick out at least 1" from the drill to get through the drywall. Your drill should go easily through drywall, but less so through wood. The other thing to look for is wood on the end of the drill bit. The 3rd test is to not drill to the full depth of the drill. After you are done drilling and the drill is off, push the drill bit back in the hole. If you are over a stud, you won't be able to push any farther. If there is no stud behind the wall, there will be no resistance felt. If you had drilled a 1/4" hole and gone into a stud too far, you then would have trouble using either type of fastener (screwing directly into the stud, or the plastic inserts). Once you have determined whether you are into a stud or in just drywall, you can then either move on (stud) or pull out the larger drill bit (drywall) and drill the holes to the larger size. After you've done that, now is where the small hammer or big thumb comes in. You need to push/lightly tap the plastic inserts into the holes, flush with the drywall. I like to try putting the screws in now, either into the studs or into the inserts once the inserts are in the wall, just not all the way in, to make sure they will work. If you have difficulty screwing into the stud, you may need a slightly larger pilot hole. Now is the time to find out, not when you have the button halfway mounted on the wall. If the inserts spin when you are just starting the screw, you may need a bigger size or different type of fastener (unfortunately, drywall comes in different thicknesses and grades, and also gets more brittle with age, so what works in a 20 year old house may not work in a 50 year old house. ) For help finding studs next to doorways, most doors will have two studs against either side of the door, which may or may not be touching. You can often find the location of the outermost stud by looking at the location of the light switches next to the door, as they will (usually) be attached to that stud. The next stud may be 16" center to center, or the inside and outside edges of the stud will be about 14.5" and 16" from the door side edge of the switch plate. The reason I say may is that while (most) wall studs are placed on 16" centers, doors usually don't fit in those dimensions, so the gap on either side of the door is likely to be smaller. In the case of my door, the light switch pictured is on the inside of a stud and the button is over the next stud (but off to one side enough to cover the hole where the wire comes through the drywall, so the center to center distance is about 6" instead of 16?). But using a stud detector often starts with a tape measure and knowing where a stud "should" be, so you will know what your detector signal looks like when it finds one. Also, since studs generally are on 16" centers, finding one will usually help in finding others. After you are ready to mount the button to the wall (but before you actually mount it), turn over the button and you will notice two screws on the bottom of the button. These correspond to the two screws on the old button. You simply need to unscrew one wire from the old button and transfer the wire to a terminal (screw) on the new button, and then do the same thing with the second wire. Having done this, turn the new button over, place it against the wall, making sure you aren't pinching the wires (there is a little slot for surface mounted wires to exit) and insert the previously started screws (you did remember to take them out?) and tighten them down. Now all you have to do is plug your garage door back in (or turn on the circuit breaker) and your new button should work like a charm. In fact, it probably took me far longer to type this out than it did to install the button. Of course, I had holes that mostly lined up (I think I actually had to drill a new hole for one of the screws, thinking back now).

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 5 minutes to install and works perfectly
*by D***. on December 24, 2025*

Perfect replacement

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Easy to install and use
*by L***M on January 25, 2026*

Worked perfect and easy to install !!

## Frequently Bought Together

- Genie Series II Garage Door Opener Wall Console - Sure-Lock/Vacation Lock for Extra Security - Light Control Button - Compatible with All Genie Series II Garage Door Openers - Model GBWCSL2-BX
- Genie Garage Door Opener Wireless Keyless Keypad - Safe & Secure Access - Compatible with All Genie Intellicode Garage Door Openers - Easy Entry into the Garage With a PIN - Model GK-R, White
- Genie authentic G3T-R 3-button Intellicode garage door opener remote with, works only on Genie openers, single pack

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*Product available on Desertcart Finland*
*Store origin: FI*
*Last updated: 2026-02-02*