--- product_id: 43273398 title: "Honeywell M847D Zone Valve Actuator" brand: "honeywell" price: "€ 131.65" currency: EUR in_stock: true reviews_count: 13 category: "Honeywell" url: https://www.desertcart.fi/products/43273398-honeywell-m847d-zone-valve-actuator store_origin: FI region: Finland --- # 24 Vac low voltage power Spring-return for fail-safe action Direct mount with anti-rotation shaft Honeywell M847D Zone Valve Actuator **Brand:** honeywell **Price:** € 131.65 **Availability:** ✅ In Stock ## Summary > 🔧 Master your zone control like a pro—comfort and efficiency at your fingertips! ## Quick Answers - **What is this?** Honeywell M847D Zone Valve Actuator by honeywell - **How much does it cost?** € 131.65 with free shipping - **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship - **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.fi](https://www.desertcart.fi/products/43273398-honeywell-m847d-zone-valve-actuator) ## Best For - honeywell enthusiasts ## Why This Product - Trusted honeywell brand quality - Free international shipping included - Worldwide delivery with tracking - 15-day hassle-free returns ## Key Features - • **Effortless HVAC Control:** Two-position actuator ensures precise damper operation for optimal zone comfort. - • **Fail-Safe Spring Return:** Automatically returns dampers to default position on power loss—peace of mind included. - • **Compact & Durable Design:** Robust metal build in a sleek 3.4 x 4.5 x 2.4 inch frame fits tight spaces with ease. - • **Plug & Play Installation:** Direct replacement with anti-rotation shaft and dual screw options for hassle-free mounting. - • **Trusted Honeywell Quality:** Backed by 4.7-star reviews and industry-leading reliability for professional-grade performance. ## Overview The Honeywell M847D Zone Valve Actuator is a compact, 24 Vac low voltage, two-position spring-return actuator designed for direct mounting on 7/16 inch coupling style dampers. It features anti-rotation and drive shaft extensions for secure installation and is a direct replacement for the M847D1004 model. Ideal for ARD, EARD, and ZD zone dampers, it offers reliable, fail-safe damper control with easy wiring via terminal blocks, making it a top choice for HVAC professionals and savvy DIYers alike. ## Description The M847D is a two position, 24 Vac spring return actuator designed to operate ARD, EARD and ZD zone dampers. Review: Boss level Heroics for married DIYers - fix your damper issues easily, live like a King, save money - A couple of months ago, our A/C stopped spewing air in our upstairs abode. A quick search online suggested it was a damper issue (you have dampers when you have dual zone HVAC). I watched some videos and found that it seems fairly easy to replace (which LARGELY depends on where your dampers are located - mine are in the attic, and require Mission Impossible-Tom Cruise like contortionist abilities to reach and change). The unit came simply packed - it's not really well cushioned for drops and handling issues, but I'm guessing the unit must be robust enough to endure. I ended up buying one previously that appears to pretend it was a Honeywell, looked darn close except for some off markings, so be careful with what you buy. It also came with two screws - a short screw and a long screw for attaching to the damper. The long screw makes it easy to install, but runs the risk the damper might be affected by the insulation around the damper. The short screw is more difficult to install, but should easily clear most insulations. For mine, I used the short screw do to insulation. Now what makes the short screw a little more difficult is more due to the size of the screw and your environment. If the damper is easy to get to and the motor easy accessed, then the short screw at best would be a minor inconvenience. I do like that they give you both screws and let you choose. Both screws will use an allen wrench (not included with the unit). To remove your old one, also most likely uses and allen wrench, turn the screw (don't have to turn it all the way, just enough to loosen it) and remove. Install the new one - it only goes one way - there's a metal post that inserts into the damper to keep it in position and help ensure you can't install it the wrong way. I recommend you pre-screw in the screw you intend to use, no so much as to impair your ability to seat the new motor unit, but not so little that if you bump it, the screw falls out into the insulation abyss. Actuate the damper vent (helps if you have someone able to be near a vent, and you can turn the vent open and closed to determine position). I installed mine with the damper in the closed position. Also, check how far your damper rotates. There are 3 settings on this unit to help determine when the baffle is at max open and max closed. In my case, the baffle was on setting 3 which means the distance to open and close is about a 90* actuation only. Once you have it on (mine didn't want to easily go over the damper actuator), tighten down the screw. In my case, the screw turned and then immediately stopped. I thought I should at least screw it harder or something, but I guess that sudden stop means you are there - there's no feeling of "okay, 1/4 more turn to tighten it". It's binary - on or off to tighten. Also, I recommend if you installation environment is mission difficult that you wire it up first and have someone help to test the thermostat on/off to see if the motor works before you install it. There are two posts - once for voltage and one for common (M1 and M6). I thought I had the correct wire (yellow) and wired that as common. WRONG. Thankfully, I didn't ruin the unit, it just didn't work. I had a helper view the zone controller and he was able to help me determine through labeling on the controller which color wire was common and which was had voltage. The posts are just push down, insert wire, release to install, so, super simple there and they appear to hold strong enough for my satisfaction (there's no other install option, no screw posts). Operation. For me, when air was sent through the damper, it took a couple of seconds to activate, and 30-60 seconds when the thermostat was set to shutoff, so be patient when testing it. Also, my unit had a light for open and closed. The open light NEVER illuminated. The closed light appeared to work, but seems like once or twice it didn't light up, but I could hear/feel that the damper had closed, so I didn't care - not going to be seeing those lights anyways. Just need the thing to do its job and I'm good. Came out of the attic, restored heat and air to the upstairs rooms, and the adoration and affection from the masses was stuff of legends. Back rubs, slippers, favorite meal - all ready and waiting for the hero of the day. That soon ended as all of that faded for the next morning, but for that day, I lived like a king. Save yourself money - it's an easy fix and replaceable item and is only made difficult by how hard it is to get to. You can also view videos on youtube (I saw easily two) that demonstrated how to replace these units. Those videos gave me the courage to try. Review: Replacing M847D1012, Easy to Install, Came with Actuator and 2 Set Screws - My Honeywell M847D1012 Actuator was making a clicking sound (once per second ish) when the damper was in power close position. This product Honeywell M847D Zone is a direct replacement. Total work took 100 useful reviews. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-M847D-ZONE-TRUEZONE-Replacement-Actuator-for-Normally-Open-Dampers 4. Search Term: “Honeywell actuator replacement” 5. My issue was “Failed zone damper” with clicking sound, sample video from Dennis Benjamin https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5zQ4UQ9Iks Some hiccups: 1. The box I got from desertcart came with a little packet of 2 set screws. One is 0.5 inch long and has a head. The other is 1.5 inches long and is a headless / socket / blind set screw. You can use either one as the set screw, or use the old set screw (1.5 inch, has a head) from the old actuator. I prefer the old set screw because it is longer, so it is more visible and my Allen wrench can reach it more easily. It also has a head so I can grab it with my fingers. 2. You should use the non-contact voltage meter to test and ensure power is off before you start removing the old actuator. 3. How to determine which wire goes to M1, M4 and M6? The short answer is whatever wire that was connected to the old actuator’s orange wire should be shoved into M1. Whatever wire that was connected to the old actuator’s yellow wire should be shoved into M6. The long answer is: I’m not using M4 (for LED indicator light). I use M1 (for common wire) and M6 (for 24 Vac wire). It seems that for AC, you can switch the wires, but it’s a good habit not to. I assumed the old actuator was wired correctly. Eg. I have two wires connecting to the old actuator’s orange wire and yellow wire respectively. say, Wire-1 —> Old Actuator Orange Wire —> M1. Wire-2 —> Old Actuator Yellow Wire —> M6. I based this on “Andrew Rogers”’s youtube guide). It works correctly in my case. 4. You may need to wiggle the wires to make them fit in M1 and M6, especially because the original wires came out twisted once you remove the wire connectors. You can use the plier to straighten the wires a bit before shoving them in M1 and <6. 5. Short wires? Beware that the wires from your home might be a bit short and might not reach the new actuator, since the new one doesn’t have connecting wires, but just buttons. You can pull on your wires to see if you can make it reach the new actuator. 6. The set screw on the old actuator may be hard to unscrew - it might be very tight. Use some force to loosen it. Steps: 1. prepare the tools 2. make sure you know which wires should go into M1 and M6 ahead of time (See hiccup #3) 3. put the set screw onto the actuator just right - make sure you can’t see threads from inside the actuator hollow central pin, so that there’s enough space in the hollow pin to connect to the pin coming out of the damper) 4. turn power off of the furnace and the zone control (from main service panel) 5. make sure furnace won’t call for heat (this should be true since power is turned off on the furnace) 6. use non-contact voltage meter to test for no voltage on the wires coming out of the actuator 7. make sure the fan is off - no blowing air. This should be true already since the furnace is off. But just double check. If the fan were on, it may blow the damper off, no good. 8. loosen but don’t unscrew the set screw (the long screw towards the bottom right) on the old actuator. It may require some force to loosen it. If you look at the set screw head, then clockwise is to unscrew. 9. unscrew the two wire connectors and untwist the wires. 10. push the hex key to further loosen and remove the hex screw on the old actuator 11. put the set screw aside. You can use this instead (see step 2) on the new actuator, or not - your preference (See hiccup #1) 12. remove/pull the old actuator in a straight outward manner 13. check the damper is open all the way (may be hard if you don’t have opening in the duct. If that’s the case, ignore this step - your damper should be open all the way anyway, since it’s always open and power close) 14. observe the hollow central pin and the stationary pin on the new actuator 15. push the new actuator straight on 16. check the new actuator indicating it’s in the “open” position 17. tighten the set screw (it should already be on the new actuator by step 3). Tighten it all the way. 18. damper should show it’s completely open. 19. hook up the wires: M1 (common/ground) with the wire that originally connected to the orange wire on the old actuator. And M6 (24V) with the wire that originally connected to the yellow wire on the old actuator. 20. push the wires in 21. push the M1/M6 buttons down one by one. Push it down, put wire in, let go of the button, give it a wiggle to make sure the wire doesn’t come out. You should be able to shove 1/6 inch of the wire inside at least. 22. turn power back on 23. watch your actuator move when heat is called. ## Features - Low Voltage, Spring-Return Damper Actuator - Equipped With Anti-Rotation And Drive Shaft Extensions For Direct Mounting To 7/16 Inch Diameter Coupling Style Dampers - Direct Replacement For M847D1004 - Brand Name: Honeywell ## Technical Specifications | Specification | Value | |---------------|-------| | ASIN | B01GWW9M6W | | Best Sellers Rank | #38,417 in Tools & Home Improvement ( See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement ) #1,110 in HVAC | | Brand | Honeywell | | Brand Name | Honeywell | | Connector Type | Terminal Block | | Customer Reviews | 4.7 out of 5 stars 1,429 Reviews | | Exterior Finish | Plastic | | Global Trade Identification Number | 00085267353069 | | Included Components | Zone Valve Actuator | | Inlet Connection Size | 1 inches | | Inlet Connection Type | Compression | | Item Dimensions | 3.4 x 4.5 x 2.4 inches | | Item Type Name | Zone Valve Actuator | | Item Weight | 1.1 pounds | | Item dimensions L x W x H | 3.4 x 4.5 x 2.4 inches | | Manufacturer | Honeywell | | Manufacturer Part Number | M847D | | Manufacturer Warranty Description | Manufacture | | Material | Metal | | Material Type | Metal | | Model Number | M847D | | Number of Ports | 2 | | Outlet Connection Size | 0.5 inches | | Outlet Connection Type | Flare | | Size | 36.96 cubic inches | | Thread Size | 7/16 inches | | UPC | 085267353069 696335219622 | | Unit Count | 1 Count | | Valve Type | Ball Valve | ## Product Details - **Material:** Metal - **Brand:** Honeywell - **Item dimensions L x W x H:** 3.4 x 4.5 x 2.4 inches - **Exterior Finish:** Plastic - **Inlet Connection Size:** 1 Inches - **Inlet Connection Type:** Compression - **Outlet Connection Type:** Flare - **Number of Ports:** 2 - **Outlet Connection Size:** 0.5 Inches - **Global Trade Identification Number:** 00085267353069 ## Images ![Honeywell M847D Zone Valve Actuator - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51mrzDak7wS.jpg) ## Customer Reviews ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Boss level Heroics for married DIYers - fix your damper issues easily, live like a King, save money *by D***N on February 8, 2026* A couple of months ago, our A/C stopped spewing air in our upstairs abode. A quick search online suggested it was a damper issue (you have dampers when you have dual zone HVAC). I watched some videos and found that it seems fairly easy to replace (which LARGELY depends on where your dampers are located - mine are in the attic, and require Mission Impossible-Tom Cruise like contortionist abilities to reach and change). The unit came simply packed - it's not really well cushioned for drops and handling issues, but I'm guessing the unit must be robust enough to endure. I ended up buying one previously that appears to pretend it was a Honeywell, looked darn close except for some off markings, so be careful with what you buy. It also came with two screws - a short screw and a long screw for attaching to the damper. The long screw makes it easy to install, but runs the risk the damper might be affected by the insulation around the damper. The short screw is more difficult to install, but should easily clear most insulations. For mine, I used the short screw do to insulation. Now what makes the short screw a little more difficult is more due to the size of the screw and your environment. If the damper is easy to get to and the motor easy accessed, then the short screw at best would be a minor inconvenience. I do like that they give you both screws and let you choose. Both screws will use an allen wrench (not included with the unit). To remove your old one, also most likely uses and allen wrench, turn the screw (don't have to turn it all the way, just enough to loosen it) and remove. Install the new one - it only goes one way - there's a metal post that inserts into the damper to keep it in position and help ensure you can't install it the wrong way. I recommend you pre-screw in the screw you intend to use, no so much as to impair your ability to seat the new motor unit, but not so little that if you bump it, the screw falls out into the insulation abyss. Actuate the damper vent (helps if you have someone able to be near a vent, and you can turn the vent open and closed to determine position). I installed mine with the damper in the closed position. Also, check how far your damper rotates. There are 3 settings on this unit to help determine when the baffle is at max open and max closed. In my case, the baffle was on setting 3 which means the distance to open and close is about a 90* actuation only. Once you have it on (mine didn't want to easily go over the damper actuator), tighten down the screw. In my case, the screw turned and then immediately stopped. I thought I should at least screw it harder or something, but I guess that sudden stop means you are there - there's no feeling of "okay, 1/4 more turn to tighten it". It's binary - on or off to tighten. Also, I recommend if you installation environment is mission difficult that you wire it up first and have someone help to test the thermostat on/off to see if the motor works before you install it. There are two posts - once for voltage and one for common (M1 and M6). I thought I had the correct wire (yellow) and wired that as common. WRONG. Thankfully, I didn't ruin the unit, it just didn't work. I had a helper view the zone controller and he was able to help me determine through labeling on the controller which color wire was common and which was had voltage. The posts are just push down, insert wire, release to install, so, super simple there and they appear to hold strong enough for my satisfaction (there's no other install option, no screw posts). Operation. For me, when air was sent through the damper, it took a couple of seconds to activate, and 30-60 seconds when the thermostat was set to shutoff, so be patient when testing it. Also, my unit had a light for open and closed. The open light NEVER illuminated. The closed light appeared to work, but seems like once or twice it didn't light up, but I could hear/feel that the damper had closed, so I didn't care - not going to be seeing those lights anyways. Just need the thing to do its job and I'm good. Came out of the attic, restored heat and air to the upstairs rooms, and the adoration and affection from the masses was stuff of legends. Back rubs, slippers, favorite meal - all ready and waiting for the hero of the day. That soon ended as all of that faded for the next morning, but for that day, I lived like a king. Save yourself money - it's an easy fix and replaceable item and is only made difficult by how hard it is to get to. You can also view videos on youtube (I saw easily two) that demonstrated how to replace these units. Those videos gave me the courage to try. ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Replacing M847D1012, Easy to Install, Came with Actuator and 2 Set Screws *by A***R on April 26, 2020* My Honeywell M847D1012 Actuator was making a clicking sound (once per second ish) when the damper was in power close position. This product Honeywell M847D Zone is a direct replacement. Total work took < 30 minutes. After I removed and dissembled the actuator, I realized the issue was caused by a stripped plastic gear inside the old actuator. The gear was not hard to remove - I could’ve probably just replaced the gear instead of buying a new actuator. However the gear was unlabeled and unbranded. It may be hard to find. Actuator replacement process: Equipment: 1. Honeywell M847D Zone Valve Actuator 2. 3/16 hex key (allen wrench, t-handle, etc. Any works - you need this to loosen/tighten a set screw) 3. long nose plier (or any tool with a pointy tip. You need this to push down the buttons on the new actuator to push the wires in.) 4. non-contact voltage meter (eg. Klein Tools NCVT-3, when you turn the power off on the actuator / your furnace, before you remove the old actuator, you want to use this to touch the wires connecting the old actuator to make sure there’s no power. It’s 24V, may not be the worst even if you touch it, but preferably don’t touch live wire.) Guide: 1. Youtube. Andrew Rogers, How to Change an AC Damper Motor. Very clear step-by-step process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsmNq4tccPY 2. Medium. Ninu, How to swap out an HVAC damper actuator yourself - Honeywell M847D-ZONE. https://medium.com/@ninu/how-to-swap-out-an-hvac-damper-actuator-yourself-honeywell-m847d-zone-c99d25ca3167 3. SupplyHouse. Has > 100 useful reviews. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-M847D-ZONE-TRUEZONE-Replacement-Actuator-for-Normally-Open-Dampers 4. Search Term: “Honeywell actuator replacement” 5. My issue was “Failed zone damper” with clicking sound, sample video from Dennis Benjamin https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5zQ4UQ9Iks Some hiccups: 1. The box I got from Amazon came with a little packet of 2 set screws. One is 0.5 inch long and has a head. The other is 1.5 inches long and is a headless / socket / blind set screw. You can use either one as the set screw, or use the old set screw (1.5 inch, has a head) from the old actuator. I prefer the old set screw because it is longer, so it is more visible and my Allen wrench can reach it more easily. It also has a head so I can grab it with my fingers. 2. You should use the non-contact voltage meter to test and ensure power is off before you start removing the old actuator. 3. How to determine which wire goes to M1, M4 and M6? The short answer is whatever wire that was connected to the old actuator’s orange wire should be shoved into M1. Whatever wire that was connected to the old actuator’s yellow wire should be shoved into M6. The long answer is: I’m not using M4 (for LED indicator light). I use M1 (for common wire) and M6 (for 24 Vac wire). It seems that for AC, you can switch the wires, but it’s a good habit not to. I assumed the old actuator was wired correctly. Eg. I have two wires connecting to the old actuator’s orange wire and yellow wire respectively. say, Wire-1 —> Old Actuator Orange Wire —> M1. Wire-2 —> Old Actuator Yellow Wire —> M6. I based this on “Andrew Rogers”’s youtube guide). It works correctly in my case. 4. You may need to wiggle the wires to make them fit in M1 and M6, especially because the original wires came out twisted once you remove the wire connectors. You can use the plier to straighten the wires a bit before shoving them in M1 and <6. 5. Short wires? Beware that the wires from your home might be a bit short and might not reach the new actuator, since the new one doesn’t have connecting wires, but just buttons. You can pull on your wires to see if you can make it reach the new actuator. 6. The set screw on the old actuator may be hard to unscrew - it might be very tight. Use some force to loosen it. Steps: 1. prepare the tools 2. make sure you know which wires should go into M1 and M6 ahead of time (See hiccup #3) 3. put the set screw onto the actuator just right - make sure you can’t see threads from inside the actuator hollow central pin, so that there’s enough space in the hollow pin to connect to the pin coming out of the damper) 4. turn power off of the furnace and the zone control (from main service panel) 5. make sure furnace won’t call for heat (this should be true since power is turned off on the furnace) 6. use non-contact voltage meter to test for no voltage on the wires coming out of the actuator 7. make sure the fan is off - no blowing air. This should be true already since the furnace is off. But just double check. If the fan were on, it may blow the damper off, no good. 8. loosen but don’t unscrew the set screw (the long screw towards the bottom right) on the old actuator. It may require some force to loosen it. If you look at the set screw head, then clockwise is to unscrew. 9. unscrew the two wire connectors and untwist the wires. 10. push the hex key to further loosen and remove the hex screw on the old actuator 11. put the set screw aside. You can use this instead (see step 2) on the new actuator, or not - your preference (See hiccup #1) 12. remove/pull the old actuator in a straight outward manner 13. check the damper is open all the way (may be hard if you don’t have opening in the duct. If that’s the case, ignore this step - your damper should be open all the way anyway, since it’s always open and power close) 14. observe the hollow central pin and the stationary pin on the new actuator 15. push the new actuator straight on 16. check the new actuator indicating it’s in the “open” position 17. tighten the set screw (it should already be on the new actuator by step 3). Tighten it all the way. 18. damper should show it’s completely open. 19. hook up the wires: M1 (common/ground) with the wire that originally connected to the orange wire on the old actuator. And M6 (24V) with the wire that originally connected to the yellow wire on the old actuator. 20. push the wires in 21. push the M1/M6 buttons down one by one. Push it down, put wire in, let go of the button, give it a wiggle to make sure the wire doesn’t come out. You should be able to shove 1/6 inch of the wire inside at least. 22. turn power back on 23. watch your actuator move when heat is called. ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Easy replacement *by A***R on July 14, 2026* Easy to install fixed my ac problem. I have cool air at my house tonight. ## Frequently Bought Together - Honeywell M847D Zone Valve Actuator - Honeywell CECOMINOD032202 FBA C7735A1000, Gray --- ## Why Shop on Desertcart? - 🛒 **Trusted by 1.3+ Million Shoppers** — Serving international shoppers since 2016 - 🌍 **Shop Globally** — Access 737+ million products across 21 categories - 💰 **No Hidden Fees** — All customs, duties, and taxes included in the price - 🔄 **15-Day Free Returns** — Hassle-free returns (30 days for PRO members) - 🔒 **Secure Payments** — Trusted payment options with buyer protection - ⭐ **TrustPilot Rated 4.5/5** — Based on 8,000+ happy customer reviews **Shop now:** [https://www.desertcart.fi/products/43273398-honeywell-m847d-zone-valve-actuator](https://www.desertcart.fi/products/43273398-honeywell-m847d-zone-valve-actuator) --- *Product available on Desertcart Finland* *Store origin: FI* *Last updated: 2026-08-08*