DEWENWILS Wireless Light Switch Kit - No Wiring, 10A/1000W, 100 Ft RF Range, Remote Control for Ceiling Lights, Fans, Lamps

When we were renovating our home, we thought we had planned the lighting well and didn’t see the need for additional fixtures above the kitchen island. But once all the furniture was in place and the final details were finished, we quickly realized that the space felt a little dim. The extra lighting would have made a huge difference and add an extra decor, but since the ceilings were already closed up and painted, we didn’t want to go through the hassle of opening everything up again, hiring an electrician, and dealing with the mess.That’s when we came across this wireless light switch, and honestly, it was a game-changer. Installation was incredibly easy—no wiring, no complicated setup, and best of all, no need for a professional. Within minutes, we had the light above the island up and running. It was such a relief to get the added brightness we needed without any major renovations.Now, after a few years of using it, I can confidently say that it’s still working perfectly without any issues. It responds instantly, and we haven’t had any connectivity problems. If you’re in a situation where adding a wired switch isn’t practical or you just want a simple and effective lighting solution, I highly recommend this. It saved us time, money, and stress while giving us exactly what we needed.

Product Works Great and as Intended. Easy Installation. Had to leave the receiver out of the light cover due to the size and the amount of wires in the jbox. Not the products fault. The building was built in the 30s and one light has no switch. We had a very long pull chain people were always hitting it. Now we have a switch and no pull chain.

Whoever ran the electrical in my house was not thinking!I'll save the long story!! This thing saved me a half a day of running wires! Iir took me 12 minutes to wire, 9 seconds to program and the big thing is that I jammed it in the nice hole between the light and ceiling and it worked perfectly!! It even worked in the room next door! I never knew anything like this existed before and I'm glad my electrician told me about them.I did zero research and thought for the cheap price, why not!! Going to buy a couple more for my mother so she doesn't fall down the stairs trying to turn on the hall light!!These guys didn't contact me or send me one for a review, I just bought it on a whim!!

The builder of our new unit in a retirement community used lots of pocket doors to save space in the rooms. Unfortunately, they were too cheap or lazy to put light switches where there were convenient if there was a pocket in the way. As a result, the bathroom light switch was about 18" inside the bathroom on a wall to the right of the right opening pocket door. This required fully opening the pocket door and reaching into the room to turn on the light. I was able to mount the remote switch just to the left of the door where it can be reached by opening the door about 6" despite the fact that this location is over the pocket of another door.Installation was straight forward once I resolved the neutral issue (below). Fortunately, the box where I mounted the switch is deep and there was room for this unit in addition to the multiple junction blocks and wires also occupying the box. It should work in a shallower box if the box is used solely for the wall switch being replaced by this unit but it is a little bigger than most single switches.Note that a neutral must be present in the box and the switch unit cannot be used to replace a "dangling' switch where a single two conductor (plus ground) wire is used to bring the hot line down from the fixture and to carry the switched power back to the light in the fixture. In this case, you will see both the black (hot) and white (neutral) wires from the pair connected to the switch. In this case, the electrical code requires the white wire to be wrapped with black or red tape to indicate that it is hot, but this was omitted in several places in our unit.The switch seems to have a loose internal connection since it will not work if the backplate on which it is mounted is not perfectly flat. I had to trim one of the plastic wall anchors to make it work consistently. I suspect that the battery contact may be at fault, but have not been able to check this. Thus far, it seems to work perfectly, but may fail if the mounting bends or warps.The wiring diagram seems to imply that the neutral must pass through the receiving switch unit rather than the unit being simply connected to a neutral. This is not possible in my wall box as there is a single junction block for multiple neutrals. I measured the resistance between the two neutral (blue) lines with a digital Ohmmeter and they appear to be connected together (R = 0.000 on the meter). I made a test jig from an old extension cord, connecting both blue lines of the switch unit to the neutral side of the cord (plug and socket) and connecting the brown line wire to the hot line from the plug and the brown load wire to the hot side of the socket. The setup worked in this configuration and I wired the switch into my box with both blue lines connected to the neutral junction block.

This is just a remote switch, no app, no wifi. We just wanted to relocate 2 light switches from one room to another without running new wire, removed the old switches and wired these in it's place. Now you can turn them on and off from where we decide to put the switch. And no problem using 2, they must use different codes and work independently, switching one and or off does not effect the other.

This system was the solution I've been looking for. Our mobile home is wired with a ceiling light over the kitchen sink but the switch is on the opposite side of the kitchen. It would be a costly and messy projec to install a standard wall switch. With this system it took less than an hour to install and it works flawlessly.