Park Tool TW-1 Torque Wrench (1/4- Inch Drive, 0-60 inch Lbs)

would not have been able to re-build a rear end without this tool. was right on the spot for the slight of pressure that was needed.

I received the wrench quickly, and it was needed badly to get my truck back on the road. The use I had for it was for measuring preload on the pinion bearing of a differential.Quality seemed decent, but I had an issue with mine. The pointer didn't point to zero, and couldn't be adjusted to do so. I tried flexing the torzue shaft out to 60in.lbs to get it to "zero", but it would still return to show about 4 inch pounds when not loaded, so I had to add 4 to my reading. Problem is, the preload method requiring a "rolling" torque reading, meaning it had to be read during rotation, not the breaking torque reading, which would be the amount needed to start rotation. Getting a reading between 10-12 "/# and subtracting 4 is simple math, but a pain to have to keep up with when it should have read correctly.

This tool does just what it's advertised to do: accurately torque small bolts on sensitive bike parts. The torque beam design allows the user to see the torque increase - the "click" style torque wrenches reach set torque without warning. Also, the accuracy of a 1/4" torque wrench can wander and the cost of recalibration can exceed the value of the wrench. The 0-60 inch/pound range perfectly fits the bolts on most stems, seat posts and derailleurs. I'm not certain, but I expect that this wrench is made in the USA by Danaher, which also builds for Matco, K-D, Kobalt and Craftsman. Only downside I can see, you have to take the seat post off the bike and turn it upside down to read the scale while torquing - about the only task where a micrometer wrench would be preferred.

I purchased the TW-1 to work on my carbon fiber bicycle, and also to check if my clicker torque wrench is accurate. This product is priced right, simple, and never needs calibration. The scale has torque readings in both in-lbs and Nm. However, a beam type torque wrench is not as easy to use as a clicker torque wrench, because it does not have racheting action. The indicator did not point exactly at zero when I received this tool; the enclosed manual has the instruction on how to bend the pointer until it sets to zero. I have both beam and clicker torque wrenches. If you need to choose one, I think it is best to have the beam-type wrench because you will never have to worry about calibration.

I've been using more and more carbon components and thought I should abide by the warning labels to avoid over torquing. Bought this, and it has served me well. I'm still not quite sure in the long term how accurate the deflection will be as over time, the properties of the metal from being repeatedly bent would likely change. But considering I'm not a full time mechanic and the use is intermittent, it would likely be years before that ever became a concern.

Worth the money, especially if you only need to use it in frequently. That is my case, I needed it for a specific project, couldn't rent one, and the really nice ones cost to much to justify purchasing for the limited use I required. As the parts I used it on didn't strip, and are still working (motorcycle cartridge fork internals, I revalved them myself), it was well worth it.

This is kind of awkward to use sometimes (ball handle and beam style, rather than click type). However, I love having the peace of mind that all of my parts are torqued correctly. This is great for extremely low torque parts (such as Thomson bike parts). I have wanted one for a long time, and am glad I got it. It's not a "must have" item, but it is nice to have.

I thought about the click torque wrenches but worried about the calibration, etc. This is a plain beam wrench so all you have to do is look at the pointer to make sure it is zeroed before you use it. Granted you have to be looking at the scale to use it which can sometimes be difficult. I like to be able to watch the torque value increase so I can increase it gradually.My 150 ft lb wrench is not practical for my motorcycle which often requires inch pounds. I am so impressed I am going to order the 600 inch pound version. Sometimes low tech is the better way to go.

Nachdem ich mit einem Proxxon Microclick 30/S von 6-30Nm und einem einfachen Dremo von 30-200Nm die gängigen Bereiche abgedeckt hatte, suchte ich nun hauptsächlich für die Fahrräder einen Drehmomentschlüssel für den Bereich darunter. In der Wahl standen der Proxxon Microclick 5S (der nur bis 5Nm geht) oder der nun erworbene Parktool.Was mich an automatischen Dremos stört, ist, dass man sie mehrmals hintereinander mit hohem Moment auslösen muss, wenn man sie länger nicht benutzt hat, da sie sonst später auslösen (Rastmomente, Fettverteilung etc.) und das Drehmoment dadurch teilweise spürbar höher wird.Die weniger verbreitete Bauart mit Skala wie hier angeboten hat keine automatische Auslösung, also kein "Knacken", ist aber einfach, robust und vor allen Dingen dauergenau."Kalibrieren" lässt sich der Schlüssel selbst- das einzige, was hier zu kalibrieren ist, ist ggf. das Nachbiegen der Nadel auf die Nullmarkierung. Fertig- das ist alles und schon so simpel, dass es schon erstaunlich ist dass diese Bauart so selten ist. Im Gegensatz zum Proxxon 30/S gibt es hier sogar einen Linksanzug, nachteilhaft ist allerdings, dass man immer gerade auf die Skala schauen muss um Ablesefehler zu vermeiden. Dies stellt aber in der Regel kein Problem dar.Die Benutzung ist denkbar einfach: Aufsetzen und langsam anziehen, bis die Nadel auf der Skala den passenden Wert anzeigt, dann lockerlassen. Wer die Bauart nicht kennt: Der Griff dient als "Feder" und verbiegt sich elastisch mit der darauf montierten Skala, die Nadel steht.Als kleines Manko muss ich anmerken, dass am Anfang die Kugel der Nussaufnahme hing und die Nüsse schwer zu stecken waren, was aber durch einen kräftigen Druck auf die Kugel erledigt war.Der Schlüssel selbst wirkt gut verarbeitet, die Nüsse sitzen gut.Aufpassen muss man etwas mit der Skala, da die Nm- Angabe innen ist, die inch-pound außen. Man muss eben die richtige Skala nehmen, spart sich aber beim Fahrrad manchmal das Umrechnen der Drehmomentangaben.Die Skala macht einen vernünftigen Eindruck und besteht aus einem vernieteten Metallschild- man kann davon ausgehen, dass sie wohl dauerhaft lesbar bleibt.Auf jeden Fall zu empfehlen.

Generic beam type torque wrenches can probably be bought more cheaply elsewhere, but since I needed a light duty torque wrench for my fancy new carbon bike, I decided to get this Park Tool branded one. I'd expect that Park wouldn't put their name on it if it was inferior quality.It has NM scales as well as inches-lbs. My carbon seat post requires up to 7NM of torque and I felt confident that I wasn't overtorquing the bolt (allowing for the fact that the accuracy of the scale is up to 5-10% off judging from other people's experience with these types of beam wrenches)I recommend these types of wrenches over the clicker type of torque wrenches which can easily go out of calibration. Also, the clicker types are less accurate at the lower end of their range. For small carbon parts, you are way better off using these beam wrenches which maintain their accuracy far better throughout their range.

Great for bicycle usage where the low torque is needed. Comes with an adapter for 3/8" sockets. Would be better if it had a pouch and pricing is high enough that it probably should come with some sort of storage option. No complaints though.

Made the job much easier as I was setting up the pinion pre-load in a GMC pick up truck. Was able to know I was doing the job right. Always good to have a accurate reference point to use.

Funktioniert einwandfrei. Einzig, ist der Zeiger nicht genau auf 0 im unbelasteten Zustand. Finde ich ein wenig schleißig, ist aber für für Benutzung kein großes Problem.