BIQU Smart Display 2004LCD Ramps 1.4 with Adapter for 3D Printer RepRap Adapter 3D Printer Accessories

I accidentally short circuited my main board and it fried my smart display screen too. This was an exact replacement to fit even better than the OEM RepRapGuru i3 one. The screen is really bright and can be adjusted on the back. I've had no issues since purchasing. Matter of fact it fits my cutout better than the OEM one.

Works with Prusa i3 with modifications, as others have said. If you're putting this on a MK3S, you will need to use something like a rat tail file or a router bit on a dremel to cut a notch into one side of the 3D-printed LCD bracket (that slides onto the LCD board to connect to the frame) in order to clear the contrast potentiometer.You will also need to buy longer ribbon cables if you aren't just using the ones from the stock printer (or are building your own i3) search for "10-pin IDC cables" and look for a minimum length of 70cm.The other issue with ribbon cables is that for some reason Prusa felt the need to change the Marlin firmware to use the pins connected to the LCD in a 180-degree flip. You will either need to cut a notch out of the plastic housing for the ribbon cable pins on the back of this board so that you can plug the cables in "backwards", or very slowly rock the plastic off with a pliers and rotate each 180 degrees and put them back on.The only other minor issues I encountered is that the control knob seems to be longer than the one from Prusa, as the 3D-printed control knob cover was too short and looks a little goofy, but a new knob can always be printed. Lastly, the rotary encoder seems to work backwards to what you would think is intuitive, people suggest cutting or desoldering the encoder and flipping the pins so that you can reverse control direction, I haven't seen exactly how to do that so I'm just going to keep it the way it is and get used to it (good luck to me as a novice figuring out how to mess with that in the Prusa fork of Marlin firmware).If you need a replacement for your stock i3 LCD controller, this beats the heck out of paying 5x as much for the one from the Prusa shop before shipping and handling are factored in. As long as you're willing to live with some concessions and make a few modifications to get it to work, I recommend these all day.

Had an original LCD go bad, so I bought this. The leads are installed backwards from the original, so I had to notch the plastic to be able to insert the cable connector, but that was easy. Also, the knob operates backwards. There is a fix online, but it involves messing with the connector leads, so I just use it backwards. It messes with the others in my printing department, but I like it.

My original LCD went out after a couple static discharges from touching the panel :(. I saw the reviews that you can get it to work with mk3s so I had to try since it's 20% of the cost of the original.The ribbon cables do work if you flip each 180 degrees. To get around the keying I carefully just pried up the black plastic pieces so I could orient the original cables without having to modify them. You can put the black pieces back on inverted if you want or use it without them. I also had to notch the left LCD mounting bracket to fit the taller LCD adjustment pot. It was easy enough to do with my Dremel. If you want to be fancy, you could download the STL for the part and modify it and print a new piece.I'm fine with the selection knob turn direction being inverted, I'll learn to get used to it. You will have to carefully pry the head of the knob off to put the Prusa LCD cover back on.

The lcd didn't work out of the package. The lcd cables are to short for a prusa either way so if that is something you need take it into account.

A little static electricity made the original display on my Rostock Max V2 blank out so I replaced it with this display. The connectors are keyed opposite of the original as others have stated but it was not a problem as the connectors on the board at the other end of the ribbons are not keyed so I just reversed the connectors on that end. I did have to clip the solder posts off the front of the lcd pcb to get the cover to fit right but that was easy enough. Now it seems to be working as it should but I may try to add some type of conductive foil to the housing and ground it to avoid problems with static electricity in the future.

The board and screen work. I needed to do a little shaving on the frame it was being installed on; not a thing to gripe about. HOWEVER, like several others have noted, you need to shave the connectors on your cables and install them UPSIDE DOWN. After that it works great. Such a simple quality control issue to fix. It's more of an irritation really, because otherwise it's a simple board with a basic purpose that it handles fine.

I have purchased two of these over time. Since my Prusa MK3Ss (yes two MK3S) the SD reader was getting flaky so I just replaced them with these. I knew before I bought them that they were "backwards" from the original from Prusa, so you can't complain. What I did, though, was I cut the two wires to the encoder switch and wired it backwards to that it goes the right way. The stem for the encoder wheel is also longer than the Prusa, so I used the Dremel with a cutoff wheel to shorten it. For me, it was 15 minutes of soldering, 2 minutes with a Dremel and I had a perfect replacement with Prime delivery and saved a few bucks to boot.