BOSS Audio Systems AR4000D Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier - 4000 High Output, 1 Ohm, Low Level Inputs, Low Pass Crossover, MOSFET, Bass for Subwoofer

This is a Mono amp, meaning you can only plug One Subwoofer into it. For $50, this AMP works flawlessly. It has never turned off from being too hot and I am an Uber EATS driver, so my car is on ALL day. The best part about this AMP, is that is has a Line Out Converter / High Output adapter installed inside it and it comes with wires. My LOC didn't arrive when the AMP did so I was pretty mad, then realized that it had that adapter and was immediately excited again. VERY easy to hook up and use. I recommend this for anybody New to bass systems and looking to install a simple 12". I've got a 1000w 12" Kenwood Subwoofer installed to it. Beats HARD. You won't be dissapointed.HERE'S SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS ON INSTALLING YOUR SUB TO STOCK HEAD UNT YOURSELF.- Subwoofer should be in enclosed box.- Amplifier is best screwed to the subwoofer box- Take the Power wire, cut it as needed, and wire it to the BATTERY input on the AMP, then run it to your car battry Positive Terminal. ( I wrapped the wire around it and stuck the Cars wire harNess over it and tightened it )- Ground wire goes to the GRND input on the AMP then goes to either a bolt in your trunk ( which shouldn't be painted ) or If you have a fuse box in the trunk with a ground wire, you can use that bolt as well.- Blue power wire. That goes to the REM / Remote input on your AMP and runs either to the power wire in your head unit, or a fuse that turns off when car is off. ( I used my ignition fuse. I Wrapped a wire around it barely, so I could get it back into the fuse slot )Now that your AMP will have power when the car is turned on or in the accessory mode, we can now wire the speakers. Easiest part, just nobody ever describes it good.-Your subwoofer has two inputs on the box and the subwoofer should be wired inside the box as well. POSITIVE TO POSITIVE, NEGATIVE TO NEGATIVE.- Your amp has a positive and negative input. Use the speaker wire you have and wire it to the subwoofer box, from the AMP. Positive to Positive, Negative to Negative. Positive is often times a silver wire, as Negative will be Copper. OFTEN, not for all speaker wire.NOW, the LOC if your bought one, or I'f your using an AMP like this, which came with an adapter installed in the AMP already.- The LOC / Adapter wires both are the same.They have 5 wires and some LOCs only have 4 wires. With 5 wires, there is a ground wire which I used a piece of Negative speaker wire to make it longer, then ran that to where I had the AMPs ground wire.- Locate your rear speakers and figure out which is the Positive connector and which is the Negative. The Wires on the LOC or Adapter wires will be like this if your looking at itPOS. NEG. GROUND. NEG. POS.OR if you only have 4 wires without the ground, ignore the ground. When the adapter wires are plugged to the AMP, you'll see which side is Left and Right. So from there, simply tap those wires into the Left and Right rear speaker. You can take the plug off the speaker wrap it around snug, and slide the plug back on. That's what I did. Just make sure POSITIVE is POSITIVE and NEGATIVE is NEGATIVE. The Wires on the LOC are very short and so are the wires on the Adapter wires foe the AMP if you don't have the LOC. If you are using an LOC, once those wires are tapped to your rear speakers, plug in the RCA and match the colors up correctly. Make sure whatever wires you cut, are properly wrapped In electrical tape or if the shrink wrap, whatever you use.Now, turn your Car on and your AMP is ready to go, and your Bass system should now be bumping. Adjust the GAIN and volume on yur amp according to your taste.If your AMP does NOT come on, it's because your blue power wire isn't installed correctly.Best way to test your AMP is find a normal fuse to something that's always on, like a cig ligter.Use different fuses until you get it to turn on then property identify your ignition fuse that way the AMP cuts off when yu turn the key off.Your welcome.

This is a solid amp as long as you don't expect 1500 watts. It's a more realistic 600W max with an RMS of around 200.The fuse is 30 amp, which at 14 volts equates to 420 watts. It's at most 60% efficient, so that's 252W output. And since that's probably still too high, let's call it 200 watts RMS.It sounds good and doesn't distort unless you really crank it up. Even at 200W it shakes my mirrors and rattles the trim pieces. Punches hard and sounds good with an Infinity 1262 wired at 2 ohms in a Scosche truck box.Pros:Sounds goodSmall, and lightweightHas high level inputsCons:It gets hot, but I haven't had it shut down on me yetNot anywhere near claimed outputSo overall, I'm impressed with this amp, at least for the price. It's a solid amp for a good price. If you're looking to add some low-end to your system, this is a good way to do it.

Coming from someone who has owned, since the early '90s to present, many different car stereo systems. From the super expensive, big name stuff, to less expensive systems. I am surprised by the BOSS AR2000M. For a supposedly, "Cheap grade & China made" amp, it performs exceptionally well. (Lets face it, most are made in China,Taiwan, etc !!!). But paired with 2 PYLE 15" 1500 watt, single voice coil subs, wired parallel for 2 ohm imp. (max. power) and mounted in a quality, quad-vented solobaric box, it Freakin Bumps!!!. Excellent bass response, no distortion, and great overall sound quality. It has good features, quality contacts, & rugged construction packed in a small, managable sized unit. Honestly, I have no complaints & for the price and quality, I believe I made a great choice. Sounds better than most of the "Big Name" amps that I paid way too much $ for, because thats what i paid for, the "Name" & a fancy symbol on the housing!! But I will definitely recommend & purchase more BOSS products without a doubt !! Very pleased w/ BOSS !!

First off, I'm pissed I can't give this a zero star. Because that's really what this deserves.I ordered one of these as a temporary replacement for a good amp I had while I was still looking around. This one had decent enough reviews, I thought it would be good as a temporary/backup. Order it, comes in the mail two days later, go to install and the first one refuses to turn on. Made sure all the wiring was correct, tore out paneling to make sure there wasn't any severed cords, checked under the hood, tore the head unit out. All good. So at that point I'm saying wtf. File for a replacement, replacement comes in. Go to hook it up and the replacement too refuses to turn on. This one however wouldn't stop blowing fuses. Every time I connected it to power the fuses blew, went through the two it came with, the two the previous amp came with and one that was plugged into the old amp that the first one replaced it with. Blew all 5 immediately. And on top of that it ruined my sub with all of it's electrical problems, so I'm now not even back to square 1, I'm set further back than that.Long story short, Boss is garbage. Everyone told me before I bought it, decided to find out for myself and it didn't pay off. Save yourself time and upon reading this, promptly continue your search, don't waste your time on this pile of garbage.