Table Top Epoxy Resin - 1 Gallon Kit for Bars and Countertops | Two-Part Epoxy Coating for Bars and Tables, Woodworking, and Resin Art; Clear, High Gloss; UV Resistant for Outdoor Use

Still my favorite! I have pieces resined years ago with this resin that still look like it’s the day after it cured. This resin withstands the elements and is durable. The color stays true over time. I reordered this recently and it’s still the quick curing, easy to mix and pour resin I remember. With a heat gun you won’t have bubbles. If you make a mess it will be harder to clean than other brands but it’s worth it!

Laid down very nice and even, easy to work with. Just follow the instructions, do not cut any corners.

This product 100% delivers on all of its promises. I am a new user of epoxy, resin for countertops. I will admit to being extremely nervous based on so many things I have seen and read about resin. What a wonderful surprise. The ease of use. The work time. The high gloss. All is #LEGIT. 100%. I can’t emphasize enough how easy to use this product it. The value is amazing. I have already ordered a second supply. Here are a few test pieces.

There are many different brands of epoxy out there on the market. But did you notice that although the branding may be different the epoxy will still smell the same? Look at the containers and imagine them without the branding. One can start to tell which ones to stay away from and which ones to go back to. . This brand seems to stand out on its own. Not only is the smell unique but the performance is as well. This is a thicker solution. Meant for top coats of tables and such. If you're using it in molds you're going to have a hard time. Why? Because thicker solutions means that bubbles are harder to get rid of. The resin is also are harder on the molds themselves. The curing time is shorter than the average. This is good for it reduces the amount of contaminants that could possibly get into the project top coat as it cures. For those who work with Mica powder, this could be a double edge sword. It's good because it's quick to thicken even more so that the patterns can be saved easier but because it quickens faster, One has to be quick or else the window is missed. I generally have two types of epoxy on hand. A thin-based solution and a thicker base solution. This is now my go-to for the thick base solution. It's strong it's quick drying doesn't get too hot and the bubble seem to be minimal. The epoxy itself is a little bit more expensive than the average that's out there right now But I think you'll get your money out of it. {Edit} Warning: Has no UV blocker in it. This is not good at all.

This Epoxy Resin is very great .We had some bubbles but we used heat gun .I pour 3:gals all at same time in a 90"x 45" table for American legion.It turned out beautiful.

I checked out all the different products, read reviews and selected TotalBoat Clear. I was very happy with the outcome. This was the first time I tried an epoxy. My project was a live edge slab of walnut for a bar top between a kitchen and living room. I watched several you-tube videos but was still very nervous about starting my project. I fixed up a room that could be all mine for my project for awhile, knowing it might take me longer than those videos! I had a large hole to fill and thick bark that I needed coated (so no one would pick at it!). I knew small mixes at a time would be best. I taped a piece of plastic under the hole so the epoxy would not run through it. I would always place my epoxy in front of a heater first to warm while I got my gloves and things ready. I started by using small plastic condiment or jello shot cups to measure and put into a plastic cup to stir. I always put the thick part in the mixing cup first, then the thin part on top and stirred in front of the heater for 5 minutes. I first tried the 10 minutes that I saw recommended a couple times in reviews, but that was over-kill. I found it was harder to work on the surface and made my wrist sore! For the hole being about 1 1/2 inches, I probably used 4 fills before I did the hole surface. At the same time that I was filling the hole, I also poured over the bark since it was really rough. I used a brush to get it in the grooves. The blow torch is important - and cool! But what I learned was to go back and look again after you think you got it all. Bubbles seem to work their way up out of nowhere, and I missed some the first go around. Doesn't hurt to fire up the blow torch again! The reviews I saw showed people putting dust covers over the project, but if you do that, you might do it too soon and not see the bubbles. Use a toothpick to get any dust out of the surface. I also learned to continually go back and scrape the drips underneath, and here was how I was trying to get the epoxy up into the bark edge from underneath. So I didn't use a dust cover, I just closed the door and didn't let anyone in! I did make a mistake by sanding the bubbles I missed. It left the fine residue in the pits. I tried to vacuum and blow out the sanded particles, then I tried to pick them out with a pin, but I couldn't get it all out. Made me sick, but they are very small and most people might not notice. So I stress for you to keep checking on your project for the 1st hour or so and use the torch! After the top was complete, I could feel a small area with a bit of a rough edge underneath, and the last thing I wanted was someone trying to pull the bark apart from underneath. So I flipped the top over and made up one last small batch and smoothed out the edge on the bottom. I am thrilled with the bar top. It was a bit of work, but was well worth it. This product mixed well and is a nice hard clear coating.

My project consisted of putting baseball cards on a bar top and sealing them in with epoxy resin. I read many reviews on the many epoxies on the market. I selected Total Boat after reading reviews and watching videos. I also watched a number of YouTube videos on how to apply the epoxy. I found one video that closely matched my project. If I could do it over again, I would only use Mod Podge glue on the bottom of the baseball card and not glue the top because the glue streaks show through the epoxy and does not look very good. A few people posting videos said to glue the top. Wrong. Also, I would not have put tape on the edge of the bar top. Instead, I would have allowed the epoxy to drip over the sides. It would have made for a better finish. I used a heat gun to remove air bubbles. That worked well. I put two coats of epoxy on waiting about four hours between coats. I should have put one thicker coat on, not two, as the second coat did not flow as well as the first. In the end, the bar top looks pretty good. The prefect finish to our Dodger cave.

First off I’ve been a resin artist for a little over a year now and have my own business so it’s really important that I have good resin that preforms well. Well, let me tell you...I’m struggling! So usually I use counter culture DIYs resin because that’s what I first used and it’s an amazing resin, but they had not restocked it for a whole 2 months and I had orders coming in daily so I had to buy a different brand. After a lot of research I thought this brand would be good but I was wrong. It’s thick. And I don’t mean kinda thick, I mean...insanely thick!! Dad bod thick!!! And because it’s so thick bubbles are impossible to avoid and get rid of. I’ve never had this problem before but I felt like I was in a level of hell where the bubbles kept forming. I decided to use a heat gun after mixing to try and get rid of some of the bubbles. I’ve done this often before with counter culture resin and never had a problem...well with this resin it was a huge problem. The heat made it instantly cure and it became so hot it melted the cup it was in. I lost a whole batch and felt defeated. I don’t give up though and tried four more batches between two days. Each time with similar results, bubble hell. The other thing I noticed is that it cures so much faster then counter culture so if you buy this make sure you have everything ready and set up because once you mix you have maybe 10 minutes before it gets so thick it’s hard to work with. Overall I won’t buy this brand again. I think I’ll try art resin next but honestly after this experience I’m scared.