20 Sheets A4 Inkjet Water Slide Decal Paper Sheets White

Great product, excellent price and it works great.

Okay read and follow the directions very closely and if you don't understand bad English here is my interpretation.1. Set your printer up to print narrower longer piece of paper than normal printer paper (at least in the u.s.) They forgot to tell us that.2. Print the image to your desired size making sure it doesn't exceed the allowable margins and that the shiny side is facing the printer heads. (This varies by printer. Mine was face down.) NOTE this is not a mirrored image.3. Spray a clear coat evenly and uniformly on the surface of the print. I used Krylon clear Matt finish not auto paint.4. Let the clear coat air dry or dry it with a drier. I recommend a dryer for the best results. Do not let it air dry.5. Cut out your decal leaving enough room on the edge to grip it without gripping the image.6. Put a sponge or absorbent cloth in a shallow pan filled with water. Once the sponge is saturated you can place your decal on the sponge printed side up and lightly dab the printed side with a wet cloth. Do not rub it at all or the ink will rub off.7. Test to make sure your decal is lifting from the paper backer then apply it to your desired surface.8. Dab the decal very softly with a soft brush or a wet Q tip to smooth out the air bubbles then to remove the excess water (Do not use SalvoSet at this point).9. Either let the surface air dry or dry it with a hair dryer.10. Now you can use the salvoset to smooth out any remaining bubbles or to fit it around surfaces. Be very very gentle so that you do not remove the ink.11. Bake or air dry as the instructions say then coat with clear coat again (if you're using it for a model as I did).I can't emphasize strongly enough how important the clear coat is. If you have used other printer transfers in the past this might seem like an unnecessary step, but trust me it is not.See the image below. This simple strip was sprayed lightly with clear coat after my first attempt with no clear coat completely absorbed in the water.I attempted to apply it to my piece anyway to test how easy it transferred (see photo below) of the green dome. The lightly coated decal is very stretchy and the parts that weren't washed away cracked and separated under the tension. I figured I needed a better coat of clear coat and I was right (See image of dome with number) This time a laid down a thicker even coat of clear coat and dried it with a hair dryer to see if I could get the colors to set. The colors didn't even set with the thinner coats as is evidenced by the white strip below the numbers. That white stripe is all that remains of the red and yellow strip decal after the water ran off the number 6 decal it took away a lot of the color then after I applied Salvoset, it took away the rest. BTW, the remaining white stuff is hard to lift off. I'll have to sand and repaint this dome and spoil that nice number 6.By the time I tried my 3rt stripe on a different dome I had worked out all the issues. I figured you must use a hair dryer to dry the clear coat and you can't subject the printed surface no matter how dry or how much clear coat to too much water. So I added a stripe to my sand dome and it turned out just fine using those precautions. (See sand dome image below). I also clear coated the dome before adding the decal which made the surface a little smoother and allowed the decal to be moved in to position easier without cracking the paint or wearing it out.I got these decals with the WHITE instead of the transparent substrate because the clear transfers were not opaque enough to retain the color. The reds turned to brown and the yellows almost disappeared completely. The color is very vibrant and so it is well worth the hassle of applying them. That being said I only gave them 3 starts because the instructions are written poorly and they require (I can't say that enough) they require a clear coat or the decal will wash completely out if put in water. The colors are also very fragile even with a good clear coating.

Very easy to use. I used these to make logos for a collection of cups i am making for myself. I cut these using my silhoutte cameo3. Best advice i can give is, plan what you are making and try to put as many on one sheet as possible. Apply the clear coat first before cutting your work out. Becuase the clear coat will seal the edges and make it difficult for the transfer to release from the paper. (I hope that made sense). On mine, once i applied my decal to the cup. I let it dry and then used a 2k automotive clear coat to seal the logo and paint.

I was going to return this paper but i decided to try it again. it was MY fault it wasn't working correctly. You need to clear coat the paper about 4 or 5 small coats. wait a good hour.. leave the paper in the water for about a good 45 seconds and then slide the paper off gently. Now with this technique the paper works perfectly. will definitely purchase this paper again!

I am hoping that is will help others out. I ordered this from this seller the first time and the package was purple and I loved that paper!!!! But when I reordered the second one was pink and the paper is impossible to work with!!! The first was glossy and worked fine but the second was more matte, impossible to remove from the backing, and the color cracks (even after sealed) every time!!! The only difference in the packages is the color and the fact that the pink one says made in China! I would love to order again if I am sure to get the first one that I ordered but am now looking elsewhere because I DO NOT want the pink!! It was a total waste of $!! Hopefully the seller can explain or provide a guarantee that when I order I will get the right stuff!!!