DROK Blue~Tooth Board, 12V Audio Receiver Blue~Tooth Module DC 5V-12V Portable Wire~Less Electronics Stereo Music Receive Circuit Chip with Micro USB Port for Headphone Speaker Home Sound System DIY

I am a purchasing consumer reviewing a product I purchased. I am not receiving anything for posting this. 5-stars easy. No complaints, I bought two Some of the reviews below state this board is a 24-35V device. It uses a GH27G / AZ1117E power input chip, that's only designed for 13V max. I STRONGLY DOUBT this device can withstand over-voltage by a factor of 2x-3x. The Amazon product description seems correct at 12V. Disclaimer: I only power mine with a standard 5V micro USB cable. I haven't actually tried it at higher voltages. [5/8/25] 2 Month review. I stand by everything posted below. After 2 months this BT board has been absolutely bomb-proof reliable. I use it every night, all night to listen to relaxing music and fall asleep. The BT radio has never dropped out or dis-connected from my old iPad. The analog side of the circuit has been just as reliable. Outstanding. [3/21/25] After several more days/nights of critical listening I stand by all my initial impressions below. I don't know if its component burn-in or what but something slightly "bloomed". The sound image is more layered now compared to a Y-RCA cable straight out of the ipad headphone jack. The harmonic content surrounding notes, room acoustics and ambience in recordings seems slightly more distinct now. The sonic differences between L/R Multi-tracked instrumentation are a little bit clearer and easier to hear. There also seems to be more energy at the extremes of the sonic spectrum. Below ~45Hz is bloomier and more resonant. Above ~6K seems more delicate, articulate and refined. The difference is very slight mind you, maybe an ~8% perceptional difference (if that). It's (honestly) probably just my hearing perception adjusting and picking it up for the first time. This is my finding with all my headphones, none of which are commonly known to be high-detail revealing. I am going to dust off my old AKG K701 and Koss A250 today and give a listen with those. Those are my most analytical / accurate headphones. FWIW I am not a 100% believer in electronic component "burn-in". I know for me personally my hearing perception sensitivity can vary greatly. I am a STRONG believer in blind A/B listening tests, and that's really the only way to validate my impressions. The eyes can strongly influence what the brain / ears hear. I attached a pic of my electrical tape mod to help dim the blue flashing LED. The instructions have an illustration with headphones plugged directly into the TRS output jack. I tried that and it was awful. Probably a gross impedance miss-match with lower Z cans and IEMs, and a severe power deficiency with my 300 ohm HD650. I would only use this as a line-level device. [3/13/25] I power with a micro-USB plug. Plug into my Larocco PPA headphone amp with a cheap RCA "Y" cable. I use an ipad as BT source for ALAC and 320k mp3 files. Absolutely no issues what so ever after 3 nights of critical listening. The circuit is "black background" silent. No hiss, no hum, no clicks/pops or digital artifact noises of any kind regardless of ipad volume setting. No radio frequency noise / interference either. Sound quality seems to be well balanced no offending boost or cuts to the sonic spectrum. It is a very "dry / uncolored" sounding circuit when used as a line level device. I A/B compared it with a plain "Y" cable out of my ipad... and I really could not hear any significant sonic differences. These impressions were made using sennheiser HD650, Koss KSC75, Grado HF-1, Truthear Zero Red, JBL T110. Frankly I am pleasantly surprised. BT connectivity / reliability has been solid... as reliable as the cheap RCA-Y cable it replaces. I bought two of these so I could use my headphone amps with BT. This will help reduce some of the wires and clutter on my desk and nightstand. I will probably mount one in a small project box and just use a micro-USB plug for power. The second one I think I can squeeze in the second amps enclosure, and tap into the 12V DC part of the circuit. The blue LED is CRAZY bright at night. I cover it with a small piece of black electrical tape and it helps. I wish it were the opposite, solid ON when connected to BT and flashing when waiting to be paired. But that's not nearly major enough to take away a star. Reliability of course remains to be seen. I will post dated updates to this review as my opinions change.

Usé éste módulo para actualizar un amplificador Sony TA-A50 al hacer la interfase a una entrada que originalmente es destinada para un sintonizador de radio. Naturalmente la instalación requiere de soldadura y un vistazo al manual con los diagramas eléctricos para saber el lugar para instalar la conexión. Suena bien, cumple su función. Me agrada que el módulo tenga provisión para antena externa, pues instalar una ayudará a incrementar el rango de operación. Ampliamente recomendado.

Esta en proceso de pruebas

I have bought and used several of these Drok Bluetooth audio modules over the last few years to update vintage gear. They are rock-solid performers; I've never received a bad one. They are incredibly easy to set up, feature solid connections, and I have nothing but praise for their build quality, reliability, and ease of use. However, while the design is perfect for seamless electronic switching between inputs, the designers missed how the module is actually used in real-world applications. The auxiliary input and output are a direct pass-through via the onboard relay. If you feed a standard line-level signal in, that same line-level comes out. But the Bluetooth radio outputs at a lower headphone-level voltage. This means while your pass-through source has normal gain, the Bluetooth audio requires you to max out the volume on your phone or tablet. Because this module is almost always integrated into a line-level path rather than a headphone path, this voltage mismatch will disappoint. Unfortunately, this complicates integration. To avoid volume drop when switching to Bluetooth, you'll have to attenuate the auxiliary input signal to match the lower Bluetooth output before sending it to the next amplification stage. This extra circuitry defeats the purpose of having the onboard automatic switching in the first place. Drok could have easily fixed this by adding a line-level op-amp to the Bluetooth audio path and eliminating the unnecessary headphone jack. Bottom line: Skip the auxiliary pass-through input entirely. Unless you are switching between two low-level headphone sources. Instead, use the module strictly as a Bluetooth receiver, run its output into a dedicated gain stage, and handle your input switching manually.

I bought the module to install in my old BOSE Acoustimass system. I was able to tap the +15V power rail in the Bose system to power it. Connected the supplied connectors and cables to the Preamp input and closed up the unit. Set the tone controls neutral and the volume to about 3/4 When the system is turned on the Bluetooth unit automatically goes into pair mode, making it easy to pair the unit to just about anything. When it pairs I hear a notification tone through the unit and then I'm ready to go. The reason for 1 star off is when the unit is not receiving any music or Audio, you can hear digital noise / buzzing in a silent room, coming from the speakers. So the Bluetooth communications are being picked up by the amp section. This may be avoided with better shielding between the BT module and the preamp section, which I may try later. You can't completely shield the BT module because the built in antenna is mounted on the board. However you can add an external antenna using the U-FL connector on the board. Relocating the Antenna to a different place may help with the noise. Other than the digital noise in complete silence, the unit is great and the overall sound quality is good. I'm happy with the unit. BTW adding a microphone to the Built in 3.5mm input jacks will make the BT module a handsfree phone system as well.