HANGKAIOutboard Motor,4HP 4 Stroke 52CC Outboard Motor Fishing Inflatable Boat Engine Air Cooling CDI System Durable Cast Aluminum Construction for Superior Corrosion Protection 1 YEAR WARRENTY

Fast shipping well package. Motor is a good product starts first pull and run great . Pushes my boat 6 mph and I was pleased

This motor is working well on my dinghy. Easy starting every time except once when the cut out button stuck down. I need to reduce the idle so that the prop will stop. The drive gears are noisy whiny but as long as it keeps running I’m happy at this price.At the end of July, only 6 months old, the engine refused to start. I’ve been communicating with the seller who sent me a new carburetor but it’s been spraying oil out of the breather tube and still won’t keep running. They offered me $15 compensation, have stopped responding and ARE NOT HONORING THEIR WARRANTY

Powers my 10’ ft johnboat perfectly. Great mileage,runs smoothly.

I bought this motor for my 17' aluminum canoe to replace an electric trolling motor that I was using. The electric motor was nice and quiet, but didn't have very much range before the battery would go dead and a lithium battery was the same price as this Hangkai motor.First Impressions:I was actually impressed with the quality of this little outboard when I unboxed it. It was built way heavier than I'd thought it'd be; it's a solid outboard made of cast aluminum. But it's also lightweight, which I needed for my application.Preparation:This outboard doesn't come filled with oil, neither prop nor engine oil. So the first thing I did was pull the prop off and fill the prop gears with the correct gear oil. I used Quicksilver 858064Q01 SAE 90 High Performance Gear Lube. Be sure not to overfill because hot oil does build pressure and if there's too much oil and not enough space, it'll burst the seals to relieve that pressure (Just need enough to cover the gears fully). I also smeared some regular grease on the o-rings before I put the prop cover back on. When I put the prop bolts back in I used some blue loctite on the bolt threads so they wouldn't work out over time.While I had the prop off, I replaced the cheap, plastic prop with an aluminum one and also used a size larger cotter pin because there was a ton of play with the one provided. (NovelBee Aluminum Alloy Boat Propeller 7 1/4X5-A for 2HP Yamaha Outboard Motors was the prop I used, but there's many to choose from).I greased the swivel through the grease zerk. Next I upgraded the cheap Torch sparkplug with a Honda CR5HSB.This motor is a Honda GXV50 clone so I recommend looking up that manual and filling the engine oil according to their recommendations, rather than through the confusing, translated manual that is provided.I used STAR BRITE Super Premium 4 Stroke Marine Oil - 10W-30 for the engine.All upgrades + this outboard cost me around $300, which is how much they wanted for just this outboard at other outlets.Once that was finished I clamped the motor to a deep garbage can filled with water and did the standard outboard motor break-in procedure. I also tied the steering arm with twine to hold it in place so it couldn't turn and hit the prop on the side of the trash can.• Start and warm up 5 minutes• Idle 15 minutes (just enough to get prop to move)• 1/2 throttle 1 hr 45 minutes• 3/4 throttle 1 hr• Vary between speeds 7 hrs (full throttle for no longer than 5 minutes at a time)Once the motor was broke in I drained both the prop oil and engine oil and refilled with new.On the lake:Once on the canoe, this little outboard worked well. It fired up immediately and propelled us around with no problems. You won't be winning any races at the 5 mph it runs at in full throttle. There's also no way this is 4 hp, probably only 2 hp. But it's light and gets the job done.Fuel at full throttle lasts about 2 hrs.Design Flaws:If you side mount this motor like I did, when you're holding the handle the exhaust is going to be only a few inches away from your right arm and it'll get pretty warm after awhile. Also the noise from the muffler right in your ear is gonna leave you with a ringing for a few days. I wish they'd stuck the exhaust on the right side of the motor so it was a bit further away.Also, if you want to tilt the outboard out of the water and into the transport position, the lock-pin that holds the outboard in that position is designed incorrectly. It's spring-loaded the wrong direction and pops loose with the slightest vibration and let's the motor fall back into the water. It needs to be spring-loaded the other way so it wants to stay locked in place and you have to manually pull it out to let your outboard swivel back to the propelling position.All in all for the price, it's hard to go wrong with this little outboard motor. It's definitely not a Yamaha or Suzuki, but you're not paying 1.2k for it either which is probably the main reason you're considering it.

The motor came as advertised. I put oil in lower unit checked engine oil, filled with non ethanol gas pumped the primer button & the engine started on the second pull.

Prepped it well, put lower gear oil in, changed oil, tightened screws, filled it with gas. Tested it at home. Used it for less than 45 minutes and control cable jammed on full throttle 15 yards from the bank. Ran into the bank. Got 8 stitches in my right arm. Cut it on barnacles under the pier trying to stop the canoe. Going to get it fixed. It was cheap. Like the saying goes, you get what you pay for!

Muy bueno muchas fuerza y es economico me encanto

First of all, it's NOT 4 hp, it's 2 hp.Engine comes DRY ( no gear or engine oil).Check all fittings (tighten what's loose, but don't over tighten).Use "REAL" gas.The engine is a Honda GXV-50 clonePull up the Honda GXV-50 manual to understand this engine