Go PowerTS-30 30 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch, Dual Source Compatibility, Generator Delay Switch, Easy Installation, Compact Design, Black

I added this to my trailer when I expanded my solar system and added an inverter. It switches to and from shore power as it should. My default mode of camping is off grid so I inverted the signal leads and now it will wait for shore power or generator to get up and running for a few seconds before cutting over allowing for no interruption in power. Installation was so much easier thanks to the quick connectors inside. It really helps if you're working in a small space which made it worth the extra expense.

I replaced a manual transfer switch that I had in my shed that had Shore and Solar power connected. As the batteries ran out of power and the voltage dropped too low, the inverter would trip / the inverter alarm would go off and it would cut power from the shed. Not a huge deal as there's nothing essential in there, it was more my experimenting with solar, for lighting, the shed fan, and recharging of the mower battery. I just got tired of running outside switching back and forth from shore the solar setup that powers the two sealed 'car batteries'.This a automatic transfer switch did the job perfectly. I remember seeing these a few years ago when I first toyed with building a 'solar shed', but I don't remember why I didn't go with this over the EZ Generator Switch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FADDE0A) - especially since this one is cheaper. Probably just because I didn't need to hard wire it and I could plug a cord directly into it from the inverter.One thing that I remember not liking was the 15 second delay in returning to the Primary power supply, but after re-reading / researching this topic, they've addressed that issue with the addition of some jumper pins coming off of the little circuit board that's at the bottom of the unit. I just found an old 'jumper cap' from an old computer (like this here: https://www.amazon.com/ZYAMY-2-54mm-Standard-Circuit-Connection/dp/B077957RN7) to bridge the pins and then tested. It would instantly failover to the secondary and instantly failback to the primary after that. Easy day. The updated instructions from their web site (https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/catsy.549/MOBI_MAN_GP-TS-30.pdf) show how to do it (see page 5).My setup is as follows:Solar Panels --> Charge Controller --> 2 Batteries --> 1000w Inverter --> Primary / 'Dominant' Supply on the TS-30 Automatic Transfer Switch.House Power --> Secondary / 'Default' Supply on the TS-30 Automatic Transfer SwitchFrom there the Load goes to a Two Circuit Panel ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N7MM ), that has a 15 amp circuit breaker that goes to the load.So far so good - now I just need to figure out why the GFI that's in the basement between the main panel and the garage trips during transfer. The shed gets it's 'shore power' from an exterior outlet that's connected to the garage and that GFI is part of the circuit.UPDATE:At first I thought it was due to load, but then realized that it would trip the GFI in the basement when changing from 'shore power' back to Solar... In both Solar and Shore mode, the outlets in the shed work fine. In further testing, it looks like the basement GFI only trips when going back to Solar, but ONLY if switching back and the inverter alarm was previously going off for something like a low voltage alarm while powering chargers overnight. When the sun comes back up and the batteries are back to 12+ volts, the alarm still stays on. Have an e-mail in to Renogy about this to try to get it all sorted out.

This automatic transfer switch (ATS) was part of a project for our travel trailer, which also involved installing a 3,000 watt inverter. I agree with at least one other reviewer that the ATS could have been made somewhat smaller in size. One of the common uses for a 30-amp ATS is for travel trailers and RVs, where space is nearly always at a premium. I'm not sure that the Go Power ATS needed to be nearly the size of a lunch box, but we were able to find a place for it...barely. Instructions could have been better, but the PDF available at both Amazon and on their web site helped clarify things. It's pretty easy to do some preliminary testing with an ohm meter to verify which wires are normally open (NO) and which are normally closed (NC).Note that the "thing" which is commonly referred to as a "converter" is typically really an integration of three different components: The circuit breaker panel, the bank of fuses, and the actual converter, which charges the battery. In the discussion below, I'm calling the "converter" a ... "converter" and the overall converter / circuit breakers / fuses I'll call the Panel.If you're running an inverter in a travel trailer / RV, it does no good to have the converter powered up and attempting to charge the very same battery from which it is drawing power. Some people solve this problem by simply turning off the circuit breaker in the Panel which powers the converter. This will work but it's not an optimal solution. The instructions for the Go Power ATS does show the Converter in their wiring diagram, so it's natural to wonder if their ATS also does some magic to turn off the Converter when running under battery power. It does not. After looking at their wiring diagram for a while I figured out what they're trying to say: The Converter should be wired directly into shore power (before it gets to the transfer switch), and not be part of the circuits which the ATS is controlling.I have a WFCO Panel (from Amazon), and it's easy to see where the hot wire from the circuit breaker powers the actual Converter. I disconnected that wire from the circuit breaker and put it on an in-line, high-voltage fuse (from Amazon), and then wired that into shore power BEFORE it gets to the ATS. That solves the problem. When running on the inverter (i.e. batteries in my install) the converter never "sees" 120 volts, so it doesn't come on. When running on shore power, the converter is powered on and functional.With my implementation, the in-line fuse sits within the Panel box, right next to the actual converter. The other connection to shore power was made within the ATS. The idea is that all wiring connections are being made within an electrical box, which is good practice. Hopefully this helps to clarify a few things about how to install the ATS and have the converter operational only when it makes sense.

Pay attention to the details of the process of wiring this transfer switch and all will go well, very informative videos available online. Does everything you need it to I use it to switch power between shore power and inverter power in our travel trailer. There’s also a video available on how to wire your converter though this, thus eliminating the need to shut off power to your converter when using the inverter mode in your trailer.