24V 6S 40A 18650 Li-ion Lipolymer Battery BMS PCB Balance for ebike ebicycle

I bought this unit along with other 6s 40AMP BMS which look identical in picture but there is a difference you can see once its in your hands ! First the PCB these units use are 30% heavier than the others . Also the FET's are visibly larger .This tells me this unit might actually stay in one piece if it were to be subjected to long term high amp usage .This unit much more expensive than others of same type .

Defective Dont buy.

So far so good! I haven't put it under much load, maybe 20 amps, but so far it works flawlessly. Cells stay balanced, don't overcharge or over discharge.

Update: Changed to 4 stars after charging and using the battery pack I built, the pack charged properly and evenly and shutoff at correct voltage. Still leary of how easily the solder pads detached, but I would try this board again if I ever build another 6S pack...Some of the solder pads on board actually moved around when trying to solder wires on. They seem to be attached again when heat removed, I won't know if they are all electrically conductive and if the board charges the pack properly until I get a 24v charger. I am getting proper voltage at P+ and P- so I'm hopeful everything is ok. I will update my review after test charge.This board became unavailable after I bought mine so maybe this review is moot....

So far so good. Soldered up fine, now to test! Paired this bms to a diy 6s4p 18650 battery

I did not have the courage to risk my expensive batteries to this board.Comparing it to some 3S 25A and 40A boards that I am working with (that work), it just does not appear to be completely populated. There are lots of empty solder lines on the board where I would expect components that I found on the other boards.

Made a 6S battery with this BMS, ran a small bluetooth amp for a few hours, plugged a 24v charger into it (29 volts) and when the charger light went green nothing worked. Checked each 18650 and had three at nearly 0 voltage and three at 4.6 volts? Wired it just like the picture.

My P+ and P- have no current at them after wiring everything in. Check the board and it appears to be fine and soldering is good. I see an other review where someone had the same issue. Why is there no continuity at P+ and P-?????