1000W Low Voltage Induction Heating Board Module Tesla Coil 12V-48V Flyback Driver Heating DIY

This is actually my second one of these units. I melted the first one.These units are great for all kinds of stuff, I recommend learning how to make your own copper coils, I just use 1/4" copper tube and then coil it (thats a process in itself, search youtube). The reason is because the very large coil it comes with has a hard time heating small objects, just don't put large objects in a small coil. I'm running this with a custom bench supply giving 27v to the unit and an over-current protection of 12.10a, its switched on by a FTR-F3AA012E to prevent the mos tubes from vibrating, the FTR-F3AA012E is controlled by an esp8266 using a transistor switch, and it turns a screwdriver red hot in about 5 seconds. I have two 12v dc water pumps running to a 12" (1" I.D.) copper cooling coil with a 24v fan on both ends. The caps on the unit are cooled with a 24v fan with 3d printed shroud to direct air both over and down thru the caps, and back in toward the standoffs that hold the coil. I can run it for about 3 mins continusouly before it starts to warm up the water in the cooling system, the caps will stay cool for about 5 mins. I haven't needed to run it much past that time limit. I recommend this product if you have some time to set it up properly.

Doesn’t work.

Works for me.At first I couldn't get it to work.I thought it was broke. I put some small items in the coil, turned it on and nothing. Then I tried a larger item, metal tweezers. When I touched the tweezers I almost branded the imprint of the tweezer on my thumb. I said to myself okay its working.So then I tried subsequent test, and it didn't work again. Frustrating. What I found out is that you need to start the circuit, with the object outside the coils, then bring the object inside the coil.One other note. I do have a great DC power supply that can deliver 14 volts at 30 amps. Your mileage may vary with the power you can supply to the unit. I only use the induction heater short amount of times, like 5 seconds to prevent overheating transistors.If anyone wants an $30.00 induction heater to play with, here you go. Full disclosure, I have no financial interest in this company or any vendor selling this product.

So when this arrived it wasn't in the most secure of packaging BUT, it worded. There was an insulated diode in the circuit that seemed to wiggle around BUT, it worked. Everything else will th this item went well. Also if you use this DO NOT BRING THE VOLTAGE UP SLOWLY. The circuit won't alternate and you'll over heat the MOSFETS. You'll have to connect It to a switch or pug it into a supply already at its peak voltage. Overall it's not a bad purchase.

Copper coil is NOT as pictured, just a basic coil with equal length "legs" terminating straight from coil. Coil has kinks all over and flat spots in the radius. Impossible to fit coil to pcb as included. Coil's "legs" are far too short to even connect to both pcb terminals even if the coil was as described. Ended up just buying 25' of new copper coil.Haven't even been able to test it, as the coil could not be made to fit, even if heavily modified.The pcb does seem to look decent though. Decent solders Components are fairly secure. Though no thermal paste between transistors and heatsinks. No major red flags on the pcb, so not gonna bother taking the time to take it back and wait in line at ups store. Live and learn.If you want this thing to work out of the box, just no. Not gonna happen. The coil included is useless. Also FIY, there are NO instructions or specs included (like voltage/amperage recommendations, hookup suggestions, nothing--just the pcb and a joke of a coil). If you're not knowledgeable enough to make your own coil or understand how this needs to be connected to a power supply (IE you NEED to have a switch BETWEEN your PS and the pcb--and only provide power to the pcb AFTER your PS has come up to voltage)--YOU WILL BLOW IT UP at the first power on.Do your own research on how to operate these circuits--and how to build your own coil--otherwise you'll find yourself sad the first time you open the "box" (or when the "box" arrives pre-torn-open and items strewn about inside whatever bag amazon decided to ship it in--AND sad that as soon as you provide it power directly from your ps, with a *pop* the the magic smoke fills your room and nothing else happens again.Don't expect to see anything indicating how you should hook it up or operate it. Again, the pcb looks ok, so some mods should make it operate ok. But you need to do your homework FIRST. Just know that all going in if you buy this. I don't recommend you do though.I'll update this review after my purchase of NEW copper tubing arrives, and I make a coil that will fit. If it ends up working I'll update to 3 stars. I'm only giving it 2 stars now because the pcb looks decently manufactured.If I could go back (without the previously mentioned effort of getting to the ups store and their long wait times), I'd have spend $30 more to buy one from someone who has a decent background and decent reviews. This one is not that.I'll let you all know.....

For the money this works great. I have purchased in the past. As long as you have a good power supply and some cooling it works well. I used a salvaged MOT that i rewound for about 38v and a 50amp rectifier that i purchased from amazon also and with that i was good to go. Oh and i did use a small submersible water pump to cool the work coil and a fan salvaged from the same microwave that i got the transformer just to help keep the fets and caps cool. I want to get the 1800 watt version that comes with fans mounted to the board and next time i will spend the extra money. I would recommend for someone wanting to explore induction heating at its most basic setup