Motorcraft - Motor Asy (P) (YH1933)

This was a bit difficult but the job was made much easier following the below link. Tying the wrench to a string and around wrist was brilliant! I took this further and actually tied sone very light fishing line to the rear screw and wrist. I actually dropper the screw and was able to avoid it disappearing in the many unreachable cracks and crevices. Here is my big tip: I used a grinder to thin the walls of an 8mm box wrench (see photo). This enabled the wrench to see between the bolt and housing. This made removing the rear bolt much easier.Previous reviewers tips: https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R1V7W5FTAFGEYH?ref_=nav_signin

Super happy with this part.I watched several Videos that made it sound worse than in was. It took about 30 minutes total to install.I have the worst F 150 ever made (2012) They had more recalls on this one than any other year! Yeah me. Oh well.Be sure you have a decent set of fiber sticks. A small, short 7mm and 8mm socket with 72 teeth if possible. All the online video's show the firs part the same. 1) lift the rubber shelf off of the top of the radio. Use the 7mm to take those two out and set aside. Then pop the USB plate out and unclip the two connectors. Take the one 7mm screw out of there too.Using the fiber sticks, pop the two vent shields up (not off). The radio bezel comes out fairly easy. I disconnected the two upper connectors but left all the bottom ones on and laid the assembly down.Take out the 4 Radio 7mm screws and pull the radio out. Again, I just laid it down. It was never in my way.Take the screw out of the blend door actuator that you can see.Now is the tricky part. I dropped my glove box door and was able to get a small light up there and my two fingers to steady the socket. It really was not that bad.Lift the spline out. pull back the red lock and disconnect the connector.Everything else is all in reverse of course. Works perfect! I could not be happier. It is 90 out today and my air is working again!!

I needed this in a hurry and amazon came through with overnight delivery. Working on a car on Saturday, and you have the wrong part, both the seller and amazon came through with Sunday delivery 4am to 8am. Can't get any better. 5 stars to both. Ps, part fit perfectly

Product fit dead on my 2010 f150 xlt. Works great. Installation is a nightmare. It helps if you have time on your hands. Part went behind the radio. Symptoms were tapping noises on top of dash and loud. 7mm socket to remove screws from truck panel and 8mm ratching wrench to get behind the actuator screw coming in from the glove box. This screw is the hardest to remove because you have very little room to stick anything through. If you have thick hands and big forearms like i do your job just doubled in work. Sad but true. Wife was my back up and accomplished this task together. We only left the front actuator screw on because actuator doesn't move at all with just one screw on and not the rear. It wasnt impossible to put the rear screw on just to get it on and tighten it again was time consuming.

To me was wasting time don’t fit on ford F150 5.0

This is an exact OEM replacement for my 2010 Ford F-150 Supercrew. I have the standard climate control (not dual zone), and was having a problem in which the climate system would only output cool air. I knew this part was failing, because for several months prior, I was able to hear a faint "grinding" or "hissing" sound whenever the temperature control was turned from hot to cold. Eventually the part quit working altogether.As others have mentioned, there are a couple of YouTube videos that show how to gain access to replace this part by loosening the trim on either side of the center panel, removing the center panel and then removing the radio. Further, you will need a small 5/16" (or 8mm) open-end wrench (see photo) to remove the screw on the firewall side of the actuator, and you will want to access that screw by reaching your right hand through the glove compartment opening.A couple of additional tips that helped me:1. There is a large wire loom that runs across the upper area of the glove compartment opening. Loosen it from the crossbar to which it is attached (there are two push-in retainers) and move it down and out of your way to make it easier to reach your hand into the opening.2. You will drop your wrench at least once. I tied a string around the wrench and my wrist to make it easier to retrieve the wrench when I dropped it, which I did (see photo).3. Be very careful removing (and later re-inserting) the screw with your fingers. You do not want to drop it. Place a magnetic parts dish beneath it just in case. Luckily, I did not drop the screw, but you have to be very patient, especially when inserting the screw into the new actuator assembly.4. The wire connector attached to the actuator has a red retainer clip that you need to pull away from the actuator and then you need to depress a locking clip to remove the connector. In my case, there was very little slack in the wire and so I had to remove it by feel.5. Be careful and patient installing the new actuator. The gears are keyed. If it doesn't line up exactly as necessary so that the screw holes line up, you can turn the ignition key to auxiliary and SLOWLY rotate the temperature control knob to rotate the actuator so that it aligns into position.6. After you get the new actuator screwed into position, start your truck and test the climate control operation before you put everything back together. If something is wrong, it will make correcting it a lot easier.All-in-all, installation was easy, aside from the challenge of removing the screw on the firewall side of the actuator. I spent just under 90 minutes, beginning to end, including the time I spent waiting for my truck to warm up so I could test the operation before putting the dash back together. If it weren't for the extra effort and disassembly required to remove and reinstall the one screw, this job would 30-45 minutes, tops.

It really does the job