TIANSE PLA 3D Printer Filament， Wood pla，1.75mm pla Filament, 1KG Spool Filament for 3D Printing, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm

Do yourself a favor and buy a 0.6mm nozzle BEFORE you purchase this item. Yes, you can print at 0.4mm but 0.6mm nozzles are cheap and this simple upgrade will save you hours of clogged nozzles and failed prints.I purchased this product because it was cheap and had decent reviews. So, it would be a good product to trial with and get rid of if I didn't like it. Initially, I tried printing this with typical PLA settings and it was a disaster--clogged nozzles, under-extrusion, etc., etc. I read a BUNCH about the material online and ended up ordering a cheap brass 0.6mm nozzle (it will wear over time due to the abrasion on the wood but they are cheap and easy enough to replace). I also slowed prints down a ton. With my current settings, I am getting AMAZING prints. I haven't tried staining my prints yet but they do appear to sand well with high grit sandpaper. The prints also emit a wood smell, which has been an unexpected perk in my work space. Overall, I am very happy with my purchase. Be warned that there is a learning curve so be prepared to scrap a couple prints before you get everything dialed in.The settings I have on my Monoprice Select Mini v2 are:Nozzle: 0.6mmExtruder temp: 210CBed temp: 60CFlow: 98%Speed 30mm/sFan: 100%

Don't print this like normal filament! It comes out looking like particleboard if you do that. Instead, follow some instructions and you'll end up with something looking 80% like real wood.First, run a script that'll vary the temp layer-by-layer.Next, after printing, sand it down really well to flatten the bumpy cylindrical outside layer. I went from 220->150->100.After that, apply a wood stain. Stain it for much longer than the directions instruct for wood: filament can't simulate the long wood *grains* which stain is made to seep deep into, instead, 95% of the stain will sit on the first layer of your print. Waiting longer makes it stay there instead of wiping off.After staining, apply a matte wood finish. Wood finish really is necessary, because otherwise the stain will come off on your hands. If you sanded really well prior to staining the part will look fantastic afterward. If you didn't sand enough, this will cause your part to become extremely shiny.

This is great! I've used a lot of different brands of Wood-Fill Filament and I have a lot of nice things to say about this one.First, let's do the numbers:N:235 - 200C (vary for color effects)B: 60Speed: HIGH (vary for color effects)Retraction: HIGHFan Speed: MAXBed Adhesive: HairSpray (optional, highly recommended)So, what I love about this material is how broad a range of temperature you can use at he nozzle AND the fact that different temperatures and flowSpeeds result in different shades of Woody colors. The standard Tianse PLA blend typically prints best from 208C-198C and makes excellent bonds in this low temp range, which means this material can be printed way down cool if you'd like. BUT, Wood--the original Polymer--also has the ability to find entanglements and form structural bonds during the print. Based on my sensory observations while using this material, I believe that if you can smell the Wood toasting then you've got it hot enough to for Wood-bonds. for me, this seemed to happen at temps between 235C and 220C AND depends on FlowRate. So, running at 235C and 100% speed will result in a similar toasting effect compared to running at 220C and 60% speed. The time duration of time the plastic spends at high temp matters. In the higher temp range (above 215C) the material is drippy because we are well outside the range for the Tianse PLA alone. The plastic definitely also begins to toast and burn at 235C, but if you keep the speed high enough you can totally get away with it. The burned plastic sticks like your boss's boss and the wood remains structurally sound. I used the higher temp Wood-Bonding-Range for large, flat layers on the bed and then I used the lower temp Plastic-Bonding-Range for the spindley layers up off the heatbed.Extra Tips: Always let Wood-Plastic cool before debedding! The Wood and the Plastic need time to relax together (bc they relax at different rates which causes internal stress and torsional strain between the polymers). Wait until 30C or below to remove. Next, I recommend allowing the parts to cool completely to room temp and then blast with heat gun. Apply heat gently at first to evenly re-warm the part and then really go for it with the heat. The PLA may begin its Glass-Phase Transition, but the wood will not! I try to bring the whole part back up above 150C to help the Wood and the PLA get to know one another, this will also help with streamers. Then, go find something else to play with and come back when the parts are completely cool again. Use a sharp wood-chisel (and a great deal of caution) to easily remove streamers and blobs. Gently submerge in warm water until the part reaches a uniform temperature, set it out to dry and cool one more time. Enjoy!Oh yea, and one more thing: Awesome price! It's the same wood as everybody else puts in their plastics, just this one's less expensive!

So the Tianse wood filament arrived in the brightly colored packaging which is very nice compared to the pain brown boxes that most other companirs use. They use a closed spool that is nice and sturdy. The roll is tightly sealed in a vacuum sealed sleve with a bag of desiccant. The filament is wound tightly and cleanly with no problems of cross winding so no snags while printing! The filament printed very smoothly with no signs of a rough surface that you might see in a bad product. I printed at 210C with a bed temperature of 50C. The recommended temperatures are clearly printed on the sides. All layers bonded nicely and there was no excessive stringing. I would like to see the spool have some slits in the sides to make it a tad easier to gauge the remaining filament and I would also like to see the TIANSE name printed on the spool because when I find a filament that I like as much as I like this brand I want to make sure I know who manufactured it. I have to say I will definitely buy more because this is a great filament for a very low price!

Great filament, once you get it dialed it. I usually print PLA at 190-200C on a 50C PEI bed. For this filament, it prints best at with a lower hotend temp (185C-190C), and a cold bed. The print finish is noticeably better than the Hatchbox PLA I've been using (even with 0.2mm layers), and it has a less-plastic feel due to 25-30% being made from actual wood (there's a laser-cutting'esque smell when printing).

If you like wasting money, buy this item. Because you'll end up throwing away more than half your prints. Buy 500g of a better brand and you'll be much happier. This doesn't have a dimensional accuracy of +-0.03mm, in some places it's 0.12mm larger. The information says the recommended temperature is 210, but I find it melts as low as 150, and going too high results in lots of stringing, and eventually a blockage as the wood burns and leaves a charcoal lump as well as the low heat creep required to melt higher up. Also expect bad blockages because of the poor tolerances too. I have printed with more challenging filaments but this filament is just barely usable. Out of 20 prints in the last few days, 3 prints (less than 3 hours long) have finished. Anything longer than a few hours and it will jam. The information recommends a nozzle larger than 0.5mm, and even with a 0.8mm nozzle it blocks. This is because the blockage isn't in the nozzle but the heating block. When you get something printed it looks nice, but there will be some cleaning up to do with all the stringing and under/over extrusion. This filament has now damaged my printer, where a piece of burnt wood is stuck in the heat block. Closer inspection of the filaments shows inconsistent dispersion of the wood fibres. Do not recommend

Used a standard benchy gcode I have for any test, so no special dialing in, just load filament and press go. .16 layer height, 60mms, 210C. Measured filament with digital calipers, 1.74 average along 1M so in tolerance well. Prints a nice smooth finish, no lumps or bumps. zooming in can see some minor imperfections, down to not using perfect temp / speed probably, as maybe a bit too fast for this thicker filament, so knocked a star off as I need to do some tweaking. No clogging or spluttering from direct drive Mk8 extruder. Sticks well first layer to PEI on flexi mag bed, initial layer 30mms, and pinged off cleanly. Next will print a groot planter and use some wood stain or varnish to see how the 30% wood content absorbs stains. Then a set of spiral speakers Nexitek made I think. More rolls coming soon I'm sure. Camera phone messed up the true colour as was shooting pics under fluorescent tubes, is more brown in real life than this, more wood looking!

Works great like any PLA filament, you do have to be a little careful as it is somewhat brittle but it prints okay and gives a reasonable woody finish. This is actually the second timber based filament I have tried (different manufacturer) and this one is let down by have less wood in it. The first reel had a woody smell as it printed and the surface finish was more like MDF, this one is obviously timber in a plastic resin feel to it. It also doesn't have the woody smell as it printed.It is a good and consistent filament but not as woody as I would have liked.

Brought to try on my anycubic i3 mega s it started off ok got the first layer down then the filament just stopped extruding, I tried retracting and reloading but the hot end is completely blocked!!This has never happened before so I'm not very happy I'm going to need to completely strip the hot end to clear the blockage feel like returning as I don't know if I want to try again not if it's just going to block up the hotend again 😔.V5 hotend temp 210

This Item was bought after finding out that Wood Spliced PLA was a thing. I am impressed with how well it prints. I would however like to say, it is quite obvious on close inspection that the prints you make are not wood, If you think you are going to be able to fake your self some 'Handcarved Wood Statues' you would have to do some decent paint work after. The first thing i printed with this PLA was of course GROOT from Guardians of the Galaxy (Model From Thingiverse) and it came out groot... i mean Great. As is say at a distance it could be confused as actual wood. and the fact its wood effect means you can forgive errors on the print more as it adds the the effect of 'Carved'Great for if you want wood effect prints but dont think you are getting actual wood. This stuff will melt not burn in a fire.