MG Chemicals 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Electronics Cleaner, 475 mL Liquid Spray Bottle

In my search for cleaning rosin flux off circuit boards, I tried several aerosol and spray "flux cleaners" and 70-80% store-brand isopropyl alcohol. Everything just seemed to make an even bigger sticky mess that spread over the entire board, my hands, the table I was working on. Not happy.Then I tried this 99.9% isopropyl with a different thought / method. You HAVE TO BE OKAY with creating a mess first. So what I started doing was spraying the isopropyl on the board and using a toothbrush or acid brush to brush the solder joints. Then [and here's the trick] use a paper towl or lint-free Kimtech wipe to blot up the worst of the liquid/flux mixture before it dries. Instead of rubbing the paper towel or wiping across solder joints and having it shred to bits (also ensuring you'll slice into your fingers) -- wear some plastic gloves and "roll" the paper towel or Kimtech wipe across the pcb or blot it. You just want to quickly absorb the bulk of the liquid mess after brushing.So okay, you do this once and the board looks WORSE than when you started. Well, the trick is to not care about that. Just continue spraying the solder joints with the isopropyl, brushing and blotting with a new piece of paper towl or Kimtech wipe. After 3-4x quick cleanups, you'll start seeing a shiny board. It usually only takes 3-4x rounds to get most of the flux off the board.Just thought I'd save some people a ton of grief by mentioning what took me months or years to ultimately figure out. You'll drive yourself nuts if you think a single spray and brush of anything is going to remove flux from hundreds of solder points on a board in one shot.I'm sure naphtha is the preferred method by many for flux removal, but I don't like to mess with inhaling the fumes or take the chance of anything flammable -- plus I can't imagine that's good if you get it on your skin.For smaller boards I have an ultrasonic cleaner and that works well as long as the components can be submerged without damage, but for larger boards or components that can't be submerged, the isopropyl brush & blot method is my go-to. You just have to put yourself in a "zen state" of not caring what the board looks like and go through a few rounds isopropyl cleanup and you're done!

Mine was about two oz low. 475ml is about 16 oz, I got about 14 or so, the top inch and a half weren't filled.This stuff is definitely different than normal 70/30 alcohol. the immediate difference I found was when applying this to the screen on my phone, it dries in a way that my thumb moves over the screen very easily, where 70/30 allows my finger to have so much traction on the screen that I can actually lay it on my fingers screen side down and tip my hand downward and it won't fall off until it just rolls off the end of my fingers without having slid at all, at an angle of like 80 degrees or something. Doing swipes when that happens is basically impossible. You have to run your fingers through your hair to get some oil.It does have an unusually strong smell for people used to 70/30, but it is the same smell so if you don't mind 70/30 just be aware it's more of the same. If you use a bunch of 70/30 it'll be the same as a smaller amount of this in terms of the fumes.The spray bottle has a twisting nozzle, you can select to have a mist or a narrow jet. The off position works, you can't pull the trigger when the nozzle is turned to off, that says to me that it is sealing properly. I recommend turning it off every time you get done, it might prevent what is in the pump from evaporating at least for a good while.They say 99.9 will evaporate very quickly. I was afraid that meant it wouldn't stay on a rag long enough for me to apply it to anything, but it just isn't so. I actually wind up with too much for most applications even with a single full squeeze of the trigger, and have to go hunting for other things to wipe down with my microfiber cloth while it's still activated. I am satisfied.

I had seena ton of "how to" videos on painting plastic trim inside your car/truck (dash, kick panels, trim, pillar trim...) and instead of using acetone someone recommended using 99% alcohol between handling to make sure al the grease and fingerprints were gone prior to spraying. The 99% cleans better, dries faster and everything came out perfect. My truck had holes in all the trim from equipment installed (radios, light bars, cameras...) It was an auction truck used my the police so it was fill of hole. I filled all the holes and re-painted all the trim to match. Used exact match paint, there are a couple good exact match products and viola, new clean looking interior. Very please with the spray bottle 99% alcohol. Will buy again when I do another auction vehicle repainting all the trim. This one makes four.

In times like this, it's so hard to find a product that you can trust. I trust this product and I couldn't believe that I actually found alcohol for purchase. It says that it is for the use of cleaning electronics but I use it for a lot of things. It comes in a spray bottle which is so convenient, it makes it possible to spot disinfect small areas if you need to. Although that is not what it is recommended for, but I am a germaphobe so this stuff helps me out a lot. It's also very reasonably priced.

When I opened the package, fluid had leaked into the box. Shaking and dropping caused the top of the bottle to leak. Suggect not putting the sprayer on and ship seperately, Put a sealed cap on the bottle.

Nice size, the cap has spray/stream/off modes. Washes from glass surfaces without residue so I assume it's as pure as it can be. The delivery was a bit long but I think it was worth it.