MO2016 All-in-One 3D Printer Adhesive Glue - ABS, PLA, PETG, HIPS, and TPU Flex Filament on Glass, Flex Plate, PEI, Buildtak, Kapton - 3D Printing Accessories, Supplies, and Materials (50mL)

With ASA on a smooth PEI plate it worked well for me.I have had some issues with ASA and the corners coming up.Normal pvb glue sticks have typically been sufficient for me, for ASA I have found that this works better.It's expensive but I'm happy with it.Glue sticks works so well for pla and petg that is probably not worth it, but at least for ASA. I'm pretty impressed.If you're printing pla, just use a glue stick. If you're having issues with ASA, I think it's worth it.

I've been using Magigoo for about 3 months, my printer runs almost non-stop and I can say without reservation, this stuff works splendidly. I've only tested it using PLA, PLA+, and PETG so far. Hopefully it will work just as well with TPU and ABS.A couple of things I've learned along the way:1. Be careful you don't squeeze the bottle too much, or the applicator cap will pop off the bottle and you'll have this stuff everywhere. I shake the bottle really well, place the applicator on the bedplate and push gently to get the goo to flow to the pad on the tip. You only need to do this occasionally as a little goes a long way. If necessary I will GENTLY squeeze the bottle, but only if the applicator is firmly against the bedplate. I haven't experienced a bottle blow-out as others have described but I can see how this could easily happen. Use care and you won't have a mess on your hands!2. At first I was cleaning the surface with warm water after every print, but it wasted a lot of product. Start with a clean, dry bedplate, wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol (optionally, just makes sure the surface is oil-free), and apply the product in a uniform manner. Don't worry if you have overlaps and bubbles - once the product dries it actually aids adhesion and won't make a significant impact on your print. Once I've coated the bedplate for the first time, I'll let it air-dry and then apply a second layer going at right angles to the first, and then kick on the bed heater to set the product well.3. WAIT FOR THE BEDPLATE TO COOL DOWN before you remove the print! I wait for the plate to cool to at least 40 degrees C before prying the print from the plate. This will make it much easier to remove the print and it lessens the "damage" to the adhesive's layer. Some of the product will adhere to the printed parts, this washes off with warm water without problems.4. I use a razorblade scraper to gently pry the printed parts from the plate, trying not to scrape the adhesive off the plate as much as possible. You will see marks on the plate where the print came off - this is great because it means the adhesive worked!5. I spot touch-up the marks from the previous prints, and I've found that multiple layers of the product seem to work better and need less touching up over time. You don't need to wait for the bedplate to cool to room temp before reapplying the product in small areas, it just dries more quickly. The main thing is don't be in a hurry to wash the bedplate and reapply - it wastes the product and is not needed. Like I said above, multiple layers work better that just one. I've been printing for days with just touching up spots and it's been holding my parts to the plate like a lioness holding her cubs :-)I like this product because it's relatively inexpensive, it has no odor (not to me anyway), it's easy to apply and touch up, and washes off the bedplate and printed parts with warm water. On one occasion, the printed part was a large, flat plate and in that case I removed the print in the sink with warm water. It was stuck so well I was afraid I'd break the print or the glass bedplate, but under a little warm water the print just slid right off.If you use these techniques I've discovered that one small bottle with last for quite a while.

First, let me start by saying the reviewers who complained about the cap coming off likely didn't read the instructions. Underneath the sponge applicator there's a "nib" that when you press the applicator down on your build plate, releases the product into the sponge and while pressed firmly on the build plate you can then slightly squeeze the bottle to dispense the product. If you don't do it this way then it probably will come off.That being said, I can tell you this stuff works awesome, at least for me. I have an FLSUN Q5 which has the lattice glass build plate. Before Magigoo when I was printing PLA, I didn't have any problem with the filament sticking to the plate, which I run at 60˚c, but removing the print even after the plate cooled down I ususally had to use a razor blade scraper to at least get under the edge of the print and then I could use a plastic scraper to slide under and remove the print with no difficulty.NO MORE! With Magigoo applied to the build plate, after it cools down it's literally just a matter of reaching over and lifting the print off the build plate, no razor, no scraper, just pick it up. Might take a tiny bit of twisting just to break the grip, but that's it.Before Magigoo with PTEG, I couldn't get a print to stick to the bare plate so it became blue painters tape and a glue stick. It worked and wasn't too difficult to remove, if for no reason other than I could pull up the painters tape and the print had no choice but to come, but what a pain just putting down the tape.The attached picture (articulated snake) is a PETG print and about 80cm long when straightened out. You can see it takes up almost the whole build plate. I've read some horror stories about trying to get PETG to release from glass plates and taking some of the glass with them but when the plate cooled down, this print released even easier than the PLA prints I did before hand. I just reached over and picked up the head and everything else followed.The instructions say you can put it on hot, I haven't tried that. I just put it on when cool and then heat things up and print. And this stuff literally cleans up with a paper towel just dampened with water and you can see in the second picture the plate is in perfect condition. The couple of little marks you can see are probably from me using the razor blade before Magigoo.I ONLY have experience using Magigoo on a lattice glass build plate so I can't comment on any other combination but for this, it's awesome. And while it's certainly more expensive than a glue stick, just the ease of the whole process makes it worth the money for me.

This stuff is great. Works as advertised. Good sticking and easy release. Only problem is with the applicator not working. It looks like the foam applicator is recessed into the bottle too far, making the application difficult.

Buenas adherencia

One application works for several prints. i haven't had an issue with warping or popping off since i started using it. Prints dont pop off after they cool down but im fine with that.

I'd seen this used on several YouTube channels and they all swear by it. I recently found a need to print some ASA parts out and had a wicked problem with warping on the bed. between Magigoo and mouse ears, the Magigoo was the better option as there was less cleanup from using mouse ears. I'm a believer for sure.

Great adhesion, yes. But as you can see in my photo, I've still got almost half the fluid left in my original dispenser - and the applicator is so worn out as to be useless. (I use a textured plate, but so what - that doesn't mean glue applicators should self-destruct before dispensing all their contents.) This stuff is expensive, and for people with textured plates, the REAL cost is actually double!