Car Heat Sound Deadening Insulation Mat, - 197 Mil 6.5 Sqft Automobile Sound Deadening & Heat Insulation Material for Auto Hood Engine Roof Door and Trunk,Aluminum Foil Finish ,40 Inch x 24 Inch

Used this to quiet an old outboard motor that was too loud due to the original soundproofing being pretty much gone after many years (even the dealer can't figure out the year of this old motor). Worked great. I haven't measured the exact drop in the decible level, but it's noticeable. Easy to install with the self adhesive backing. Made a template using a paper bag, though I think cardboard would have been easier. Got it close, then dialed in the fit with a pair of utility scissors, laid it out and cut the soundproofing using the template. Double checked the fit before peeling off the adhesive cover and installing.

Fast delivery, great product

Truly insulates the dog house in our RV, keeps the engine heat from burning foot near the gas pedal and keeps the noise down several decibels.

It holds well on metal parts of the car, but not on plastic parts. I had to spray extra glue. The sound insulation works well, I hope it is fireproof indeed...

This has held up nicely. I used this as the backing to a custom made vinyl floormat I made for my 1928 Ford Model A. It is the perfect thickness and gives the mat the protection it needs. Being the underside of a floor mat, I was unsure how it would hold up, but i has. I often have to bend and move the mat, ant the adheisive has held. This was an inexpensive upgrade to the vehicle, without compromising the integrety of the car.

Yes it’s smaller than 40” however, it worked for our application. We purchased 2 It was not on rolls as shown on first picture. It is folded like a blanket. We purchased the thicker padding. The adhesive is strong. Easy to cut. We have not tested it for sound proofing or heat yet. I’m sure it will make a big difference. In our 49 truck.

This was the first thing I tried when I started working on the sound deadening in my car, and it’s okay, but there are higher quality products out there. Ideally, you want more than one. A layer of high density insulation over the metal to deaden resonance, followed by a layer of thicker, lower density to block external noise and insulate for temperature, and ideally, another thin layer over that, which is the sandwich many luxury vehicle brands use. If you have budget for only one thing, it’s not bad, but you can do better. Definitely make sure places like your hood are cleaned and degreased before applying it. Keep in mind that the adhesive is _pressure activated_. Don’t try and do large areas, cut it into strips and patches, make sure to press hard and use a roller. Don’t be a hero, it won’t stick in huge pieces, go slow and go for maximum pressure.

I needed to replace the failing fiberglass insulation that was original in my 1996 motorhome. The original insulation was providing some sound/heat protection inside of my generator cabinet but it was falling apart. After cleaning off the failing insulation and adhesive, this new insulation seemed to stick well to the interior cabinet walls. I could easily cut this insulation with my scissors but it does make the backing paper try to shred at the cut edges instead of peeling off in one motion. Just being careful I could ensure that all of the protection paper came off to allow full adhesion to the metal walls. It was fairly easy to attach and turn corners. NOTE: this item could probably be stretched to the advertised 40" x 40" but I wanted to install it in its relaxed size of 38" x 38". I had plenty to cover the inside of generator cabinet fully. It did reduce the noise some from my generator. I guess I could also install more of this insulation on the outer walls of the generator quieting down even more of the noise inside my motorhome. So far it is sticking well but if things change I will edit my review of this product.