Natural Soy 444 Wax: 5 pound bag by Golden Brands

Excelente producto

Large quantityLow priceEasily meltsEasy to clean upGreat for craftsCheaper online than at Micheal’s

Melts smoothly.

I'm a candle making newbie and my first attempt wasn't great. The first time I used this wax, my candles were frosting and cracking. They also had sinkholes and there were some glass adhesion issues. Second time improved greatly! My candle tops are as smooth as glass and adhered great. I noticed that pouring at a lower temperature resulted in smoother candle tops, and preheating my glasses guaranteed perfect glass adhesion.I did burn tests and found that this wax requires slightly more than 1oz of fragrance oil to 1lb, but in general, the heat throw was good and the cold throw was excellent. They burned very nicely and evenly (no tunneling) and with a 3oz jar I got more than 10+ hours of burn time.I tried multiple glass jar sizes (3oz, 4oz, 6oz, 8oz) and all worked very well. I recommend using jars that are fully open on top (not ones that get smaller towards the top) if you want a good heat throw. I also tested and used HTP-104 wicks with all of these jars and there was no tunneling, no mushrooming, and there was a high flame.Here are the supplies I used and tips for getting nice looking soy candles:Supplies- Pour pot- Glass Jars (from hobby lobby)- HTP 104 Wicks- Metal Candle Wick Centering Device- Wick stickers- 1oz of fragrance oil- a quarter of a color dye blockTips- Preheated my jars at the lowest oven temp for a few minutes (my oven was 170 degrees).- I used the double boiler method and brought the wax to 185 degrees. As soon as it was completely smooth and melted, I added my color. I stirred it up and took it off the heat. DON'T LET IT GET HOTTER THAN 185.- While the wax was cooling, I prepped my jars by centering the wicks with the stickers. Make sure to press and hold down the base of the wick so it adheres for about 10 secs.- Gently, but firmly, pull the wick taut so it is perfectly straight and set it up with the centering device.- I let the wax cool to about 130 degrees, then I added my fragrance and stirred for about a minute.- I poured around 125 degrees. Pour slowly and steadily into the jars to avoid air bubbles. Try to get an even pour and don't let it splash or touch the sides. You don't want a messy looking candle!- To make sure you have smooth tops, I stopped about a 1/4" away from the tops and let the remaining wax sit in the pour pot. Once the candles solidified, I did a second pour just to top it off and make sure there's a smooth surface. If you notice any sinking or cracking, you can use a heat gun to clean it up and a chopstick to poke at the holes to make sure the hot wax fills them.***I didn't need a 2nd pour this time actually though. The single pour resulted in a smooth surface. I think if you pour at lower temps, there is less frosting/cracking/sink holes.Clean up is tough, as expected. If the wax solidifies in the pot just reheat it in the double boiler, pour out remnance into a paper cup or bowl, and throw out. To clean a pour pot use a paper towel! Don't scrub the pot! DO NOT pour the wax down the sink.

I like these wax chips. They melt quickly and hold color well. This was a good deal for the weight and price.

I've never used 444 soy wax before, so I made a candle with it immediately. The 5 lb. bag is VERY tough non recloseable plastic. Just so you are warned. It won't give up without a fight. I had to use my Santuko kitchen knife to gouge my way into the bag "Psycho" style. Good rip resistant bag! My only complaint is the bag could use a zip strip to close it agin, but that's nit picking on my part. I had some old scented wax from the last soy candle hanging around, but mostly I wanted to see how the product reacted. It melted fully at 126F as measured by my digital thermometer. That gives you a great safety margin since the stuff melts at a lower temp then the average coffee temp. I imagine if you are careful you may even be able to nuke this stuff into a liquid. After the candle was poured it was time to wait for it to cool and see the results. It took a little longer for it to cool and solidify then the last wax I used, but it wasn't considerably longer. Took about 4 hrs for the whole thing to mostly harden in a 22 oz thin glass jar at a room temperature of 77F. The center was still a bit mushy but by morning it was solid. The wax by morning had a slightly frosty dull look on the surface. I'm assuming that's normal for the wax. If not, it's wasn't a big deal since this was a trial candle. Had no retail value. No biggy. I further examined the candle for cracking, and wick/wax seperation. Nothing. I pressed near the wick to make sure it was solid. Yup. Good candle. When lite, the wax immediately melted into a proper pool. While I didn't use the normal amount of scent I usually do, it still gave off a very decent pine like smell (the old wax I used in it was pine scented). The wax fully melted into a pool to the sides of the jar. No waste here. The wax burned at approximately 1/2 inch per hour using a normal thickness all cotton wick. So, a big candle like this should last a while. All in all it's proving to be good wax with very decent scent throw characteristics.

I use this to make my candles and wax melts. My customers rave and return. Won’t use anything else

The media could not be loaded. I was skeptical because of the reviews obviously. But in the end my candles turned out very well, and I recommend!My friend told me the trick is for the bubbles to use either a blow dryer or a heating gun to melt down the wax a little at the top for the bubbles.