Marine Boat Bilge Alarm Pump Switch Aluminum Plate Manual Automatic

Met a DNR charter requirement.

Great little addition to my boat. It provides a visual and audio warning when there is too much water in the bilge area.

I would not recommend this. Buy a rule, attwood, or some other reputable brand. The solder joints look like the were soldered by someone who did it for the first time. the wires don't even pass thru the terminal holes. One broke off almost immediately. There are small resisters for the LED's and the wires were crossed. There were spade connectors on the switches which are better in the marine environment, than their soldered on wires. Another wire broke off and would have due to vibration and had a big ball of solder barley attached to the terminal. Also, none of the electronics in the back are covered and there are no strain relief for the wires making them susceptible to fatigue and breaking. Instead of using a circuit board, they put the diodes, resisters in heat shrink tape looks like a jr. high school electronics project. If your buying this for a sailboat, and mounting through the engine compartment bulkhead, I can see exposed electronics in the back coming loose and marking sparks & intermittent contacts. (mine didn't last through a gentle installation). The 1 star is because the panel & switch seam ok quality. Like another poster said, am not crazy about the fact all switches are for the ground side of the pump. Most pumps are wired with the + side switching. The pigtail wires are actually thinner than the wires coming out of my heavy duty bilge pump(they would have been better not to have any pigtails and spade connectors). I decided to keep the unit and rewire myself.

Works great wiring diagram was faded and unreadable but for me it was not problem to trace wiring

Just as advertised and the alarm was selling point.

I'm quite pleased with this switch panel. I got one of these, and one of the basic panels. I just wish I ran it to the forward compartment not the rear compartment in my boat. I expected the deck to get wet, but most of the water runs forward.Like the other review says, wiring is not standard, but it works if you follow the directions. I run a Rule 2000 with it. It does require two float switches though, a "normal" float and a high water float.This switch has two functions I really like:1. It has LEDs to show when the panel has power, when it is pumping, and has the visual and audio alarm.2. The high water float sounds the alarm and also kicks the pump on.The only improvement for functionality would be output to a second pump. I like to run a small pump lower for maintenance, and a large pump for the higher volumes of water.The wiring requires a little more than a normal manual/auto pump, but you're getting much more functionality, so that's to be expected.I would be happier if the switch had a protective boot, and the fuse was a breaker, and the wiring was more standard, but oh well. It wouldn't be hard to figure it out to re-wire it, but the finish on it was pretty good, and it's been working great for 6 months.

I believe the set up of this switch is perfect but the quality of workmanship on the soldering is very bad. I open the box up and one of the electrical connections to the main switch to the alarm light was hanging off with a broken weld on the diode . I will have to re-weld every connection with my labor and materials, this maybe a bigger deal for some people.So If all the soldering was done right I would give this at 4 star because the materials or not the highest standard neither, if they just built a quality switch for a expensive boat I would pay 100 bucks our more for the concept .It should probably be just fine if you Resorter all the connections for a smaller boat under 20 foot like a Boston whaler or some something like that with a little average small bilge pump and not relying on it for an offshore lifesaver.

For no good reason, this thing requires both the pump's live and ground to run back to the switch. Many (most?) systems lead immediately back to a common ground, and so this could require running another wire.Secondly, and terribly, when the - and + are connected to the panel and the pump switch is turned off, the pump line still carries a constant 0.5V - Off is not off, relative to the battery ground. That's bad news for a boat. I strongly recommend against this product.